Official Luthiers Forum!

Tried again to link this post from another with a more appropriate title, still getting an IP blacklisted message.

Meanwhile, yes I have silicone. I would like to try attaching the next patch with a stronger method than I'm getting thru my current skills with HHG before the actual bridge attachment. I was thinking epoxy would be both strong and more stable than silicone..?!?

And, yes, I agree, the exact fit of the bridge had a clear attachment gap on the left side of the patch. I'll rethink how best to use the bridge back as the final sanding stage of the fit. Just need to keep the sandpaper footprint small enough to not damage the finish. Here I am again trying to do weird repairs brought about by poor original build processes. In this case, I'm doing it more to be confident moving forward on #4 bridge attachment rather than thinking I can make this guitar good enough for anything other than a vehicle for process improvement, although it did sound pretty darn good when it was playable. Roy

After you get the cedar bridge footprint smooth, attach the stickit sandpaper to that, facing up, so that you’re shaping the bottom of the bridge to match the top of the guitar.

If you’ve used silicone in your shop that may be the problem. It gets everywhere and nothing will bond to it. Also it’s near impossible to remove from surfaces.

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Jim Watts
http://jameswattsguitars.com

By silicone do you mean RTV? I don't use it around guitars, typically motorcycles. Mebbe I don't understand.

No, I meant spray silicone that people spray as a lubricant. It contaminates everything.
Uncured rtv could be a problem too I suppose.

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Jim Watts
http://jameswattsguitars.com

Oops double post!!

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Jim Watts
http://jameswattsguitars.com

Well, this thread shows the all time prize winning stupid repair attempt I've ever tried, hands down. Bob is right, a new top is the only reasonable way forward, which I'm not inclined to attempt any time soon, on this guitar.

It sits on the table, strung to pitch, there was a 'pop' at final tension, and although the bridge seems to be holding, the outside bass wing of the bridge is clearly starting to let go. I thought I had everything sanded perfectly, made a new patch that went about 1/4" further toward the neck than the previous, filled in what divots the last break left with sanded cedar and/or cedar chips with fish glue. Made sure the beveled edges of the patch front and rear were a flossed match that should help the strength, think 'll leave it strung to tension for awhile just to see if it holds. I did use fish glue rather than HHG this time, and I'm currently thinking I'll do the same on guitar number 4.

Thanks for all the advice, I did learn a few things, and I'm still happy with the attachment method using the 3 screw bridge clamps. But for now, I will probably steal the neck off this guitar for a future build. Roy

Sorry to hear that, Roy.
If you're going to burn it anyway, epoxy it on, you have nothing to lose.

Outside of that, start on a new top and don't let this one defeat you, it will make you more knowledgeable and experienced.

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Measure Twice,

Karl Borum

Thanks for the input Karl. I figured I'd get blacklisted for sure if I used epoxy. For now I'm gonna let it sit while I do stuff related to number 4. Just has not been a great year for me so far, and I need to work on something I'm not disgusted with to completion. OTOH, I just might do that some time in the future just to make this playable again. But I know little about which (if any) epoxy might be suitable for such long term service. Thanks to all those who helped even if my results weren't up to any standard I'd aspire to. Roy