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Hi,

I've been looking around online and finding "factory spec" numbers for classical acoustic guitars. The numbers all seem very high, string action around 10/64 and nut action at .050". I understand that nylon strings are more floppy so they need more space. But I'm near these specs and it seems like there's a lot of leeway to going lower? This guitar is not going to played by a strictly classical guitarist per se. So my question is, with classical guitars, do you stick to those numbers, or to what extent to you push it a bit towards standard steel string acoustic specs?

Thanks!

Def not steel string standards. I was taught 4mm bass 3mm treble for classical, 3/2.5 for flamenco, with the nut slots low as you can, which is not a low as steel strings can go. But I haven’t done an overly large amount of nylon string guitars, and look forward to hear what others have to say, especially if there’s nut numbers…

Have a few that are setup as you have stated and no intonation issues. Crossovers are setup different, mine are 3mm at the 12th
Not much help other than confirming what you have

Stephen I set-up a LOT of classical guitars and the most common reason why someone brings them to us is that standard concert classical set-up specs work very well for die hard classical players but for someone who wants to strum some Bob Dylan..... not so much.

With this said my specs that I have used on hundreds and hundreds of classicals in the last 18 years of a busy, commercial shop are this:

1). Start with the nut slots and cut them lower than traditional concert classical this will reduce string stretch and improve intonation. I don't have a spec for this but see the fret and hold method that I describe many times here if you would like I can expand on this for you if you are not aware of it.

2). High e action at the 12th 5/64th"

3). Low e action at the 12th 7/64th"

Action is adjusted with the saddle lowering it.

These specs are the same as an electric bass guitar generic set-up by the way, we call it 5 and 7 always in 64th".

3mm treble, 4mm bass is fairly standard. It's usually not possible to go lower without buzzing for an intermediate to expert player who plays with nails and has a strong right hand technique. Of course you can go lower to the point of buzzing being objectionable. .025" between top of first fret and bottom of open string is the spec I use which prevents back buzz, i.e. vibration of the string between the nut and fretted note. This is usually not a problem on a dead student guitar but as you move up the responsive and loudness scales a back buzz can be maddening and very audible.

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It seems more of a case by case basis with classical guitars then steel string. I mostly play classical guitar and my personal preference is 5/32 on the Low-E down to 4/32 on the High-e.

Scale length has a lot to do with it too but in general I find 3/32 on the Low-E pushing its limit.

I use the standard 4mm, 3mm for my classicals. With my customers, I've found that the trained, performing classical players tend to want the standard 4mm, 3mm ( 10/64", 7.5/64"), some even higher. They want to be able to dig in while performing, especially when uhplugged in smaller, quieter venues. Other customers, either from the SS side, or hobbyists, often want lower action. The trained players usually play with their left thumb on the back of the neck, so their fretting fingers approach the fretboard from a steeper angle to get between the strings more easily for clean notes. Customers without the training, and some SS players, are more likely to play with their left palm on the back of the neck so that their fingers hit the fretboard at a flatter, shallower angle, making it harder to get between the unfretted strings with the higher action.

So, it depends on the player. But I don't go lower than 2.3mm/3mm, which is closer to flamenco action.

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formerly known around here as burbank
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http://www.patfosterguitars.com

I’ve found that many new factory-built classicals will begin their life with very little relief, sometimes no relief. There’s no truss rod either so a discussion with the customer is in order - a little higher action now and watch to see if the neck takes a little bit of favourable set over time, or remedial work on the frets/fretboard immediately to impart relief, with the understanding that further fettling may be required in future as the guitar settles in.


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