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If this has been shared before then no worries.

Been using this method for over a year now. Works well even on stubborn necks like Guilds with the heavily glued cheeks.

You need two of these
https://www.amazon.com/GOCHANGE-Electri ... s9dHJ1ZQ==

Steps (remove fingerboard extension as per normal operation)
1. Remove fret over dovetail as per normal. Drill 3mm holes as close as possible to dovetail cheeks.
2. Squirt some distilled or de-ionized water into the neck pocket through the holes. Do this 2 or 3 times and let it soak into the joint.
3. Insert both of the cutters with the longest stems into the holes and turn them on. If you had enough water in the joint you should hear a little sizzle but no blasts of steam
4. Let them heat up. Usually I give them 2 to 3 minutes to reach full heat
5. Apply pressure on the heel with your preferred method.
6. Remove neck as normal. If it's stubborn add a little more water to the joint and let it cook

Big note: If removing a neck like a Guild or a Gib make sure to break the glue on the cheeks first.

The advantage with this method is mostly that with no blasting steam present you have no chance of finish damage. Also you don't you don't get steam in your face as you work. Removal time varies depending on what you're doing and what prep work is involved for your particular customer instrument.

They're cheap to replace and frankly last for a while. I have been counting and for the 2 that I purchased for then 25$ each I've accomplished 27 resets with an average of 2-3 a month.

Any questions I'm happy to answer. I've found this to be a real game changer for me in my shop.

Thank you for the report. It is very encouraging.

Thanks Dan. I’ve done a few with these too and agree it greatly reduces the risk of collateral damage.

Thanks Dan! For an average joint how long do you usually have to heat?

Is it better to be in the gap or in the actual wood of the dovetail?

Have you ever had a headblock loosen from prolonged heating of a tough removal?

Thanks

Terry

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It's not what you don't know that hurts you, it's what you do know that's wrong.

Hey Terry

1. Average heat time is start to finish is 8-15 minutes for a standard Martin neck.

2. You want the cutters as close to the dovetail cheeks as possible but preferably in the gap. It will work in the wood but not as well. They're pretty thin so getting them where you want them is just a matter of drilling accurately.

3. I have never had a head/neckblock loosen from this method

The statement to break the glue on the cheeks was pretty key to getting minimal finish damage on the neck removal re: some brands.

- As noted, some brands finish with neck on, and that finish acts as an adhesive... when the glue on the mating surfaces of the dovetail has begun to release or shear, that finish layer which bridges the joint can hold up removal.

- Carefully scoring that finish layer over the joint with a very sharp blade results in reduced damage to the finish and earlier separation of the joint.

- When the finish is lacquer, a little lacquer thinner or acetone carefully applied with a micropipette and flowed down the cheek seams softens the lacquer to prevent chip-out during scoring. For poly, not an issue.

_________________
For the times they are a changin'

- Bob Dylan

Just curious, why distilled or de-ionized water?

Also... Headstock? Head block maybe?

Yes my autocorrect doesn't like the word head block so it made it headstock.

The tap water around me for whatever reason leaves black stains on the wood. I've found distilled/de-ionized doesn't do this. If your tap water is good then by all means use it its just something I thought was worth noting.

Chalk up another “W” for the foam cutters. Two 1/16” holes, a tiny squirt of water and 10 minutes in the neck jig. No wriggling, jiggling or risky business required.






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