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Just wondering how others do this. I used to use athletic tape and TB3 to glue purflings to bindings prior to bending. I then built a jig I've seen before that uses a 6" x 36" or so piece of plywood and two 2" x 36" x 1/4" strips screwed flat on to the 6" x 36" piece and then sliding a long wedge to capture the binding and purfling between tightly for the whole length similarly to how Eric Schaefer does it. https://youtu.be/HKfjlCJDMNI I know I can buy binding already done this way but it's nice to have other options. Anybody else doing anything differently?

I saw somebody use binder clips years ago so that's the way I do it. Works fine. I'm using TB3.

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Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"

I glue with TB3. But I make up a lot of binding with the side purflings/veneers glued on before I rip it into binding strips. That makes it pretty easy to clamp up.

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Bryan Bear PMoMC

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I usually start with a 1/4" by 3 1/2 " or so binding stock and glue the black and white veneer sheets, clamp up, dry and then rip up
into ready to go binding/purfs strips. A few times for example when I needed curly Koa and all I had was the bare individual Koa 1/4"
strips I wrangled the bindings and purf lines together while installing on the body. Adding in a couple top purfs slowed me down a little
but not a big deal as I recall. Many, I'm sure do glue the lines to individual bindings so I guess we'll hear from them.

I should have noted I use the binding clamps when I’m adding purfling to individual binding strips.

If I have a larger piece of wood then I laminate BWB (or whatever) veneers and slice it up.


Steve

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Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"

I do the binder clips too. Bindings need to be at .090 or thicker else they won’t grab. TB3 as well.

Same as Ed, binder clips, TB3, and sand to final thickness on the thickness sander.

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It's not what you don't know that hurts you, it's what you do know that's wrong.

I have a whack of binder clips so may do that as well to speed things up. Not that speedy is what I'm after. Just looking for ease and efficiency.

I learned this from Charles Fox. Glue up the binding and purpling. I typically order purfling layed up like BWB at .010-.010-.010 . Insert into vise and clamp it relatively tight for 2 seconds the and move down and get the next section and so forth. Works pretty good. Not all the time the times it doesn't work I use binder clips

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+1 for binding clips. In that I roll my own bindings and purflings, I thickness my binding to about .100” so I can run them through the time saver after glueing on the purflings. I usually end up at about .220” x .082”, and I use TB3 for these operations. I got tired of storebought purflings coming apart during bending.

M

I used the binder clips for a while, then switched to aluminum angle from the local Ace Hardware. A coat of carnuba on the appropriate surfaces makes it easier to separate everything.





On the rare occasions when I really have all my ducks in a row, I'll glue strips of purfling to a stick of binding wood of the desired height, maybe 2 or 3 inches wide, rip enough binding strips for a couple of guitars, and run them through the thickness sander.

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formerly known around here as burbank
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http://www.patfosterguitars.com

Using ca?

Most recently I used the stew Mac binding laminator (designed for plastic bindings and acetone) and used it with wood bindings and super glue. Worked a treat! Bindings were .09. That might have been a Morelli hack.

Pat

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Pat

Youse has a Timesaver?

Also used the clips and TB3. Accidentally grabbed Original TB and glued up a set--bent fine without delamination.

FWIW is used to use TB OG until I learned TB3 was better, with no problems…

I have a longer piece of UHMW that adhesives won’t stick to. I use that as my gluing surface. I use TB3 and kerfing clamps from Advanced Shell Tech to slowly glue the purfling along the strip of binding. It’s mind-numbing but effective.


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I do not glue purfling to binding. Instead I carefully fit all of the pieces without any glue into the channel, tape them perfectly in place, tack them with tiny drops of CA, pull the tape and flood the seam with CA. That lets me use different heights of binding and purfling and works nicely with pearl, herring bone, et al. I do this whether I'm binding body or necks or heads or anything else.





Another nice thing about doing it this way is it lets the purfling pieces slipe relative to each other so they don't bind.

Freeman, I am (and I think most of us are) talking about putting purfling on the bottom or narrow edge of the binding, not the inside purfling on top/bottom. That way the purfling and binding can be bent to shape at the same time. I do top/bottom purfling the same way you do.

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Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"

I thought that. I usually buy wood binding that way. The couple of times I've done it with plastic I did exactly what is shown above. Put all the pieces in the channel dry, futz around until they are perfect, flood with CA. The little purfling lines don't want to bend on their tall axis but with enough effort I've made them work.

I bought one of the StewMac binding laminators and never could make it work. Of course back then I was using acetone based cement, I don't know how it would work with CA.

I initially hoped I'd be able to glue bottom purfling separate because it would be much more efficient time-wise. Unfortunately I absolutely have not been able to do so without kinks.

It works fine with plastic but not so much with wood/fiber purfling. I have done it successfully after soaking it a while first but it's still fidgety.

The laminator works well if using straight acetone as described in the instructions. It adheres the plastic very quickly.

Installing the side purfling separate from the binding is my standard approach, mainly because it makes getting nice clean miter joints at the end graft a breeze.

I do two things to prevent kinks in the purfling on tight bends. The wood/fiber purflings I get are typically about 0.100" to 0.110" tall. I found I couldn't get a clean bend without kinks when bending it on edge with it that tall. So, I rip the purfling down to about 0.085" to 0.090" on the bandsaw with a zero clearance insert made from scrap wood. That reduction in size makes it much more flexible for bending it on edge.




The second thing I do is to then tightly tape two pieces of the reduced height purfling between two pieces of binding and bend them together. The pieces of tape in the photo are located on in the flatish sections on each side of the waist bend, at the tip of the lower bout, and at the ends. The purflings come out with no kinks.

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Once in a while you get shown the light in the strangest of places if you look at it right - Robert Hunter

That is the way I have been doing it for like 20 years now on the same Stewmac jig.

I must be the only dummy using hhg, and plywood strips lined with tape as a gluing jig, similar to Pat’s aluminum (may have to steal that one). And I stack them until all 4 are done in 1 jig. Does it separate on the side bender? Yes, but not much when bent all at once. Plus, it’s hhg, dries right back up.

That was before I started hand bending. Now I prebend the purfling (on the flat plane) and glue all at once, hhg of course.