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PostPosted: Wed Dec 08, 2021 11:03 am 
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Koa
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So when you guys finally get to the level sanding and start to work up the through the grits to get to the buffing arbo stage of a build, provided you’re doing lacquer, do you do it by hand?
Do you use a small sander?
I’m open to upgrading this part of my building process …
Just curious as to what method you all like


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 08, 2021 4:34 pm 
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I level sand by hand


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 08, 2021 4:59 pm 
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Koa
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First name: Bob
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City: Fredericksburg
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By hand with a 2” gum eraser as a sanding block.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 08, 2021 5:41 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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I have a festool sander a 5 in, I get the paper with no holes from klingspore and micro mesh

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 08, 2021 5:45 pm 
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bobgramann wrote:
By hand with a 2” gum eraser as a sanding block.

Me too

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These users thanked the author SteveSmith for the post: Bryan Bear (Wed Dec 08, 2021 11:07 pm)
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 08, 2021 5:50 pm 
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I could use my Festool 5” random orbital sander, but I prefer going slower and playing it safe. I use small sanding blocks of varying rigidity. Maybe someday I’ll feel OK going faster.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 08, 2021 6:05 pm 
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Dig mistakes eraser here

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Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 08, 2021 9:10 pm 
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The Festool 5” - great tool.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 09, 2021 6:27 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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there are big erasers at the dollar store for Big Mistakes also you can get the pipe insulation and make your own for the hand blocks
as for wet sanding a small squirt of dawn in a water bottle makes a good wet solution

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 09, 2021 9:15 am 
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Koa
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SteveSmith wrote:
The Festool 5” - great tool.

I’ve considered this tool… Simone said it was hard to control:/
Can’t be any harder than my Bosch Random orbit ha


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 09, 2021 9:17 am 
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I also use big erasers to block sand, and a 6" piece of clear round gas-line hose as backing for the roundy bits....
For waterborne lacquers like EM6000, it is not recommended to wet-sand with water.
After dry sanding to P800, I wet sand with Wet & Dry with P1000, P1500, then P2000 using light mineral oil as wetting agent.
Old English Lemon Oil is simply light mineral oil with a lemony fragrance - works great.
After sanding to P2000, very little effort on the buffer is required to polish it out with no scratch marks.



These users thanked the author Robbie_McD for the post: Pmaj7 (Thu Dec 09, 2021 3:48 pm)
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 09, 2021 2:49 pm 
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Robbie_McD wrote:

For waterborne lacquers like EM6000, it is not recommended to wet-sand with water.


Interesting. I wet sanded EM6000 with micromesh pads and water on six guitars and it worked fine. It was super, super tedious though so I switched to dry sanding but with 3M Gold Fre-cut sandpaper followed by Mirka Abralon pads (and switched to Endurovar).

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 13, 2021 8:52 am 
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First name: Rob
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When I tried wet-sanding with W&D after dry-sanding with P800 3M Gold Fre-cut sandpaper, I experienced witness lines and even some film breakdown between layers (on a run of 5 guitars).
Very frustrating. The finish had cured for 14 days after the last spray session.
I scoured the Target forum and the consensus there was to avoid water, and use light mineral oil instead.
No problems since, and the process is no longer tedious...


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 13, 2021 9:48 am 
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When I sprayed EM6000 I wet sanded with low-odor mineral spirits and had no problems.

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These users thanked the author SteveSmith for the post: Robbie_McD (Tue Jan 04, 2022 8:41 am)
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 13, 2021 10:31 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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For level sanding I will use an orbital sander for the "flat" areas but stay away from the edges. I will do the edges by hand. If wet sanding I will use a few drops of dish detergent in the water. I try not to remove any more finish than I have to, and will move through the first couple of grits before the surface is completely level (still see some shiny spots).


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