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Earlier this summer I was asking about wet sanding and polishing process, as well as how best to deal with sanding thru on the edge.
Thanks to all the good responses I got, I finally managed to finish it, and, at least compared to the finish on my first, this one looks much much better. It has a cedar top, clearly louder than my first. Still need to refine the set-up/neck angle, but it sounds very nice to me. Just wanted to say thanks and show a pix. Roy

Nice color combos...

Looks good,
Did you make the top purfling?

Heck no, it's LMI

It looks very nice!

I’d like to see more pictures please!

M

Nice one Roy, thanks for posting a fine looking guitar.

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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.

Looks good. Congrats on finishing #2. More photos?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

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Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"

Few more pix...Although this is the second guitar I've built, the first was a John Hall kit, so much of the work was already done when I started. This time I bent the sides, made the mahog binding, and made the neck myself. More to learn, and more chances to make mistakes, but my confidence is higher for the next one. (I think.)

Sometimes it's the simplest things that get messed up. I already had the initials embedded in the head plate, and could tell I needed to move them up about an 1/8" inch to be decently centered before I glued it on. Damned if I didn't accidentally move them down.

The back looks to me like it needed a center strip that I didn't think it would need....

This one has the same blushing thru the lacquer problem as the first (same process), so far it's not as egregious. And I'm planning to use the West epoxy for pore fill next time and shellack all the corners, joints and rosette. Thanks for the interest, you can bet I'll want to ask a few more questions as I move forward on number 3. Roy

Nice slot-head - ambitious for a second guitar, I didn’t do my first slot-head until around #60.

Welcome to the addiction! M

Looks great! Well done.

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Bryan Bear PMoMC

Take care of your feet, and your feet will take care of you.

Look good, Roy.

Another finish question....although this one came out better than anything else I've done, (two retops and one kit build) and reflects nicely, when I look closely out in the sun, I can see the sanding marks pretty clearly. All seem to be the same grit; I went to 1500 before I started polishing. It was looking good enough at that stage that I skipped past the first polish with Stew Mac coarse, starting with Meguire Ultra Cut. I know I can get better, just not sure the best way to go about it...finer wet sanding? Stick with 'coarse' first polish? Both? It's nitro if that's not obvious. Thanks for inputs. Roy

B -utiful




Mike

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Mike Collins

A while ago I received training in removing scratches from transparent acrylic aircraft windshields. Short version: Start with the coarsest grit sanding in one direction. Remove scratches. Proceed through ever-finer grits until done, each time sanding 90 degrees from the direction of the prior grit until the preceding grit's scratches disappear. That way the person doing the work doesn't go to finer grits until all evidence of the prior grit disappears.

That way there's no mystery to why I can still see scratches, I'm sanding with 1600 grit sandpaper, but there were 600-grit scratches still present. Those scratches are not going away until I back up and sand them out with 800-grit sandpaper and keep climbing the ladder.

Of course, acrylic's got no grain...

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Peter Havriluk

For sanding finishes I like to use micron papers. The granules are more uniformly sized than on most types of sandpaper. Trizact material is also a good way to go for the final "sanding" of finishes and is often used to polish plastic headlight housings and solid surface materials.