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I really like the medium and extra fine. But wow! I can’t find it anymore? Anybody know? I temporarily used stew Mac bars. Red ones messed up my wheels. Thoughts?

I bought the Menzerna bars I'm using on Amazon.

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Once in a while you get shown the light in the strangest of places if you look at it right - Robert Hunter

I believe you can get Menzerna bars at Jescar. They also carry a new product called GlanzMax. I have not heard good things about the ColorTone bars.

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It will probably be alright.

What Greg said. Go to the Jescar web page and check their finishing page. They have their brands as well.

They have paste, no bars (Menzerna). Have you used the GlanzMax? Their recommended schedule (60 and 30) looks like mine. I wo\ill probably buy the 60/30/15 if I get good reviews here

Edit: I found the Menzerna bars on the Jescar site

Edit: What is up with menzerna's naming?

I just compared the cost of Menzerna from Jescar and from Amazon:

Jescar: $23.30 + 18.54 shipping (to Seattle area) = $41.84

Amazon: $29.95 + free shipping = $29.95

Jescar is in NY so for those who live on or near the east coast the shipping cost would likely be less egregious, but it still might cost less through Amazon.

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Once in a while you get shown the light in the strangest of places if you look at it right - Robert Hunter

Given that the naming for Menzerna is confusing me, which 3 should I order? (medium, fine, extra fine)

I'm pretty sure greaseless, dry only

P204 = Medium Cut
GW16 = Finish
P175 = Super Finish


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This^^^

FWIW, I start with 113GZ which they call “heavy cut”. Then afterward the same as Tim.

Here is their product page so you can read details of each.


https://www.menzerna.com/products/solid ... ing-steps/

Brad


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Tim and Brad - There are three types of Menzerna in each of the heavy cut, medium cut, finish, and super finish categories. How did you choose among the three types in each category?

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Once in a while you get shown the light in the strangest of places if you look at it right - Robert Hunter

Recommendation from Joe White.

60/60 Cotton buff for the medium, Domet flannel for the finer compounds. Never use a buff with more than one compound.

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That works for me. Thanks.

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Once in a while you get shown the light in the strangest of places if you look at it right - Robert Hunter

Same here - only it was a recommendation from Brian Howard while learning to finish with UV materials.

Also same, I use cotton for the 113GZ and P204. Then flannel for the GW16 and Atol6 (I think Atol6 is the same as P175 in the end).

To be honest, I’ve been stopping at the GW16 and then just going to a 3M swirl remover by hand.

Recently I picked up one of the handheld polishers that Barry recommended in another thread. I’m going to try that with the swirl remover next time.

Brad


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I got mine from LMI when they labeled them fine and super fine. Olive and ivory. Is your super fine the ivory color? I'm assuming that is the new p175 & gw16 being the fine/olive.



How did you search? I couldn't find anything at that price.

Pat

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Pat

Looks like the prices have changed since I got mine early in the year. Here are two listings for P175, one for $25.60 + $8.50 shipping and another for $46.96 w free shipping (such a deal!).
https://www.amazon.com/menzerna-Premium ... 934&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.com/Menzerna-Premium ... 000&sr=8-2

Looks like the P204 is no longer available for cheap on Amazon.

Looks like Jescar currently has the best price for P204 and GW16.

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Once in a while you get shown the light in the strangest of places if you look at it right - Robert Hunter

bad post

Hey Mike,

Yeah, if you only have two wheels it could be good to go P204 and GW16 and then swirl remover.

I bought these pads to go with it- Griot's Garage 11274 3" Black Foam Finishing Pads (Set of 3) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D8Y71ZM/re ... JFbQ89799S

I use this 3M swirl remover - 3M 05990 Hand Glaze, 1 quart (32 fl oz) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002ZQB1U/re ... JFbS5RSHXH

Note: I have not yet used the handheld polisher other than a test panel, I just got it. I hope to use it on the uke I’m finishing up now.

Brad


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One more thing - if you’re going to apply the swirl remover by hand, I use these - 3M Perfect-It Non-Scratch... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0748MKN9R?re ... b_ap_share


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Thanks Brad.

I think this has been a hugely helpful thread. I book marked it!

I am looking at the one with the 12mm throw. Is that correct?

Yep! That is the one that I ordered based on the other thread.


Adam’s Swirl Killer 12mm Dual Action Polisher – Car Buffer DA Polisher Machine for Car | Orbital Polisher Car Scratch Remover | Auto Detailing Tool Kit Prep for Ceramic Coating Car Wax Clay Bar https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B6CR5WQ/re ... UTF8&psc=1

Brad


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Old thread, new question to address a FUBAR in my buffing shed (metaphor):

[EM6000 and NC lacquer]
There are a lot of new abrasive technologies since this thread, Super Assilex included.
After leveling and preparing for buffing, many schedules:
start with the Medium / P204 then
finish with the Super Fine / P175.

If we level with super fine abrasive "paper" like Assilex/ Buffex , why isn't the buffing schedule moved to the finer side:

Start with Fine / GW16
Finish with Super Fine / P175
... and eliminate the Medium / P204 ?

That schedule (prep sanding beyond P800 ---> GW16 Fine ---> P175 Super Fine) is inferred by the Menzerna chart, near the bottom:
https://www.menzerna.com/fileadmin/ns_t ... EN_web.pdf

If I said "asking for a friend" you'd all know I was lying......

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Measure Twice,

Karl Borum

IMO, it’s all about how good of a job you do sanding through the grits and getting absolutely all scratches out from the previous grit before moving on.

The buffer with P204 can address any strays you might have missed - to a point.

Obviously it’s not going to get out 600 scratches for example, but if you didn’t get all the 1200 out before going to 1500, etc… the buffer with P204 can take up the slack.

Small word of caution about the Assilex, it is an amazing product as you’re seeing. It’s also very easy to convince yourself you have thoroughly sanded and are ready to move on. Take your time, especially areas other than the flats. For example, waist, etc…


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