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This is such an interesting thread. I've used a stationary buffer for over 40 years. More than a thousand complete nitro finishes and many, many more partial ones from when I had a shop that did repairs. I have had many different wheel pads, all kinds of liquid chemicals, bars from chocolate to menzerna, and nothing has ever been spectacular. Still looking for that aha moment. I believe the answer is in the sanding. Problem with all of these discussions is that there is no way to know if what the end finish tolerances/expectations of the poster are. What might be a good finish to one might well be less than to another. If you have a successful sanding protocal, more input on your sanding regimens, including the type of sanding material and supplier would be cool to see. I am just getting the tools to venture off into Barry territory and try an orbital buffer. Never tried that before because I have always envisioned an instrument flying off the bench. Hope that does not happen!

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“ The meaning of life is to find your gift and the purpose of life is to give it away” Pablo Picasso

That little buffer will never throw an instrument. Now buffing wheels, that is a different story.

One thing I have learned about finish sanding is that when you think you are through with one grit, you are really only half done.

Yep, If memory serves, I've thrown 3 instruments in my 40+ on the buffer. Everything goes very calm and quiet when that happens. Turn off the buffer, and settle myself before looking at the carnage. Ukes travel farther than guitars, so with ukes one hopes there is no collateral damage. Time to summon my innermost sense of self control. That's not really a skill that one wants to get enough experience to highly develop, but the longer you make instruments the easer it gets. There are so many interesting ways to ruin a day in the shop! Hope I'm totally alone on this one!

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“ The meaning of life is to find your gift and the purpose of life is to give it away” Pablo Picasso

I use a 1/3 hp motor and adjust the motor on a hinged board so the pully will slip
you don't need
a lot of power on a buffer

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John Hall
blues creek guitars
Authorized CF Martin Repair
Co President of ASIA
You Don't know what you don't know until you know it

Hi Barry,

Do you use new pads on each instrument, or do you reuse them. If you reuse, do you clean between uses?

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Matt Jacobs

"Don't tase me bro"

Hey Matt! Absolutely clean them and then use again. Clean pads are critical. I take them to the kitchen sink and use dawn detergent massaged into the pad with my thumbs. Then rinse with hot water. Soap them up several times until you get all the compound out. Rinse until no more soap bubbles. Air dry.

I ordered one of the Adams polishers late last week (on sale from Adams at $109 shipped), and it arrived early this morning. I used it to polish out the L-00 I've been working on, and I've got to say it's the best thing I've tried. Easy to use one handed, gets into the waist very easily and leaves a very nice polish behind. I'd been using a cheaper random orbit polisher, but this one is far far superior. I used Meguiars #9 followed by Novus #9 on a padded Royal Lac finish that's been sitting about a month. Very nice.

Dave

Seems like this is going to be my best bet if I want to make a significant change. Really not expensive either... particularly compared to a whole buffer setup. And for me, the best part might be that I can stay in my air conditioned shop and do the polishing. My buffer is in the main garage where things can be dirty and I don't care so much.

Also, I think someone asked about what my "acceptable target" is. The pic I posted at the top is what I'm after. It's one of my finished instruments right before I did the final bridge and neck glue-up.

Thanks Fred. I've not used those products... are they safe to use without a legit spray booth and ventilator? I'm not far enough along to dedicate a permanent structure to spraying.

Glad to hear it worked out for you Dave. It is quite a little workhorse, isn't it?

Need a link to Menzerna Med/Fine/Xtra Fine source

Chris Ensor started a thread in 2016 called “Buffing Insights.” I’d link to it directly, but I’m not sure how in Tapatalk. He spoke with the folks at Jescar and shared their recommendations using their 60/60 buffs with Menzerna P204, followed by P175 on dommet flannel buffs. I adopted them immediately and am happy with the results on Cardinal Lacquer.

I don’t remember how long this took me, but it couldn’t have been more than an hour. I only did two passes with each compound. The sanding routine with my Festool ETS-125 was to level with 600, then 800, 1000, buff.

Terry, nitro lacquers need the proper conditions to be sprayed, non-explosive exhaust fan and lighting, and wearing a good ventilator.

Jescar. Hard to find on their site, so you have to go into the GlanzMax menu and link from there.

Barry, because I’m curious in all things, and because this could be a solution for ukes, I also picked up one of the polisher units you recommended.

I have 3M hand glaze swirl remover that I use as a last step. I picked up some 3” pads from Amazon that are labeled as finishing pads used for fine polish and sealants.

With a system like this do you apply it and the remove the polish residue with a separate cloth by hand? Or use a second pad that has no polish on it? Or something else?

I experimented a bit on a test panel and I had a hard time getting the polish residue back off with a fine polishing cloth. I tried a pad with no polish on it but that didn’t quite work either.

Just wondering if I’m missing something obvious?

Brad


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Hey Brad, I have some high quality microfiber towels that are dedicated to guitar polishing. I take one of the towels and just barely dampen it with water. This will pick up the spent compound residue very well. Then follow up with a dry MF towel.

I learned most of my polishing techniques by reading auto detailing forums. Those guys go to fairly extreme measures but they know a lot of cool stuff.

Awesome. Thanks, will give it a try!


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Barry- I got my Adam's buffer today too. You neglected to mention, or maybe I missed it, that this thing ain't light. I have to decide if I can handle the 6# of weight single handed. I have only ever used my stationary buffer over the years. I can see how this machine might be an issue for older folks, which I am. Still a couple of days before the pads arrive, so I'll have to decide. Maybe not so bad doing a guitar with it, but ukes will require almost total single handed use. I guess if it really improves my finishes, I'll have to start going to the gym!-Bob

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“ The meaning of life is to find your gift and the purpose of life is to give it away” Pablo Picasso

Sorry about that Bob. Yes, it is heavy. I am an old guy too and was worried about the weight at first, but in use it is not so bad because you let the weight of the tool rest on the guitar and do the work. The only place where the weight may be an issue is when doing the sides. It would be helpful to come up with some type of body holder that would stand the body up on one side so that you can hold the buffer with both hands when doing the sides. A troj (sp) or some type of clamp would be a good assist.

Another old guy here--I agree with what Barry said. The weight of the machine resting on the guitar works fine. I didn't have any trouble with the sides, but I did them two handed with the guitar held in a vacuum clamp. If anything, I think the weight makes it easier to use than the lighter weight random orbit machine I was using previously.

Dave

Honestly, I had forgotten about my earlier trepidation about the weight because in use it became a non-issue and more of an assistance. I hope it works out that way for Bob.

Yeah, a vacuum clamp would be ideal for this. Which one do you have Dave?

I see a design in my head for a bench mounted holder looking like a couple of book ends screwed down to a base. Slip the body down into it so it stands up on the side. Hmmm.

I have been thinking a lot about a good design for a holder while buffing. My focus is on buffing the tops and backs, because I have a body clamp that has sturdier foam than the average Troji, and it holds the guitar pretty well for buffing the sides.

I have a body clamp made from a couple of pipe clamps mounted to the front of my workbench. I tried clamping the body there when buffing with the Adams, but the weight and heavy polishing action of this tool tended to push the body down and slip out of the clamp. So I went back to buffing it on top of my work bench, holding the body steady with one hand.

I really don't need anything to keep the body still when buffing the top or back. The body doesn't move much at all.

Thanks Barry and Dave. I'll give it a try. Pads should be here in a couple of days. Have a great weekend!--Bob

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“ The meaning of life is to find your gift and the purpose of life is to give it away” Pablo Picasso