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I would say skip the impeller change. That’s a Tim the toolman Taylor improvement at best. It helps, but it’s not a huge improvement.

The only modification you would really need to decide on is if you want to mount the motor to the wall and put the dust deputy directly attached to it or just run a hose from the dust deputy to the DC.

Also consider that this setup is a fixed setup. You wouldn’t be able to easily roll it from machine to machine so that means you’re either running long runs of 4” flex hose or running permanent ducting.

Ed’s right. I’m sure the folks here can help you get it done. I’m glad to help where I can.


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you may be surprised how many times I use that to psyche myself up.... "if you can build a guitar you can do THIS!!" haha

So with the setup outlined above... are there other parts I would need to make it work / effective... ? I'm not above giving it a go

Well, here is something I like to do. Take a probing look at how commercially available units are put together, and see if there are ways for you to do something similar with the parts that you have, or have access to.

A decent cyclone system has the motor and impeller on top, connected to the cyclone. The cyclone has some sort of chip/dust collection bin below it. The air output goes to the filter. How can you buy these separate pieces (impeller/motor, cyclone, bin, filter) and hook them up to provide for minimal use of hoses? Hoses kill performance. A little bit of hose is necessary and fine, but minimizing hose length is how you get better performance from a modest setup.

Can you put together a rolling stand for the impeller/motor, cyclone, bin and filter, that you can move around from machine to machine? Can that rolling stand orient all the parts to minimize or eliminate some hose length? I think it would be a fun project. I have little doubt you could get it together. Buy some aluminum tape to seal the joints, and you might be shocked at how well this Frankenstein's Monster of a dust collector does the job. Get some of those press fit connectors from Rockler and you can even make machine changes a fast job.

Having said all of the above, understand that I am a tinkerer (so is my friend Brad). I love building stuff like this. Other folks would validly say that this tinkering interferes with my guitar making time, and buying something off the shelf would be a better way to spend my time. Both views have merit. You just have to decide how you want to spend your time and money.

I agree with this point. If you can't measure the actual air quality in your shop, then no matter what advice you take on a dust collection system, you are going on assumptions and guesswork and don't actually know what you have. A Dylos particle detector is a worthwhile investment in your lungs. You can use it to determine the baseline air quality in your shop, how well your current dust collector works (or doesn't), how much better your new system works, how well it maintains it performance over time and under different conditions/tasks, and how well it collects dust from each source, etc.

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Grizzly motors are bad enough, but HF motors are really a roll of the dice. One thing not mentioned - if the HF motor is drawing 20 amps you need to put it on a conductor (wire) that can handle at least 25, which means you would need #10 wire and a 25 or 30 amp breaker - not the usual 20 amp circuit found in modern houses.
Running a new circuit, 110v or 220v is not difficult, and if the main breaker is turned off is relatively safe (the wires coming into the breaker from the street are still "hot"). The main breaker need only be off for a few minutes when actually working inside the panel- no more than a temporary black out. But only do what you feel safe doing - some electricians feel comfortable working on an energized panel and have the confidence they won't contact the wrong spot. I turn off the power but still treat it like it was on.
If you don't have any 220v single phase circuits in your shop I would suggest you get a couple. Sooner or later you will run into a good deal on a machine with a motor that runs on 220v.

Oh yes, I have more fun learning about how stuff works than I do the work itself.

Snow, here are some pics of my setup that might help you get the picture. Some differences are I am using 6” duct with a Dust Deputy XL. What I linked to was the 4” version of the Dust Deputy (called “Super” Dust Deputy).

My shop is smalll and I have all machines on casters so you will notice there is a bit of flex at each machine so I can reposition them to accommodate the work. You may have enough space to hard pipe all the way to the machine. I do not.

I saw Clay replied about the HF motor. This is 100% true. They are a roll of the dice for sure. The one I use has been working fine for 4 years but you can read a fair share of horror stories about them. The way I look at it, for 160 bucks, if I get a couple years out of it that’s enough ROI. The motor in this setup is not really important so if you wanted to get a different brand it doesn’t change anything. If you want to upgrade the impeller it doesn’t change anything.























Hope some of that helps.

Brad


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Dig it:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9nEeyvX-r8

so you moved the motor.... just to keep from extending another length of hose and cutting the efficacy ?

Correct. Also, the Dust Deputy is not “free standing” per se. it’s not heavy enough to stand on its own. So if you ran a hose to it you would need to somehow mount it to a base to keep it standing upright. Otherwise as soon as the hose tensed up it would topple it over (I think ).




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Agreed here as well. I have the one with serial output and hooked it to a raspberrry PI which would kick on the air filter automatically. I used this to power it up.

Iot Relay - Enclosed High-power Power Relay for Arduino, Raspberry Pi, PIC or Wifi, Relay Shield https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WV7GMA2/re ... wFbNTF9NHH

I say used because the Pi is now repurposed.



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So In getting away from bags, this unit appears to be the first in line as far as price goes, but would require electrical work in all probability

https://www.amazon.com/Jet-DC-1200VX-CK ... =8-40&th=1

Yep. It’s not 2-stage but it gets away from the bag. IIRC, that go go gadget propeller handle spins around and there is a flap inside that smacks the pleats to clear them out. You’ll be able to tell when it’s time to clear them as suction will drop noticeably.

Same thing here though, you could add a cyclone to that anytime you’re ready.


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Still a 2 micron canister. I think you be better off with the first machine and replacing the bag with the previously linked Wynn filters...

Nice looking set up Brad,
Having blast gates to close off the lines not being used really helps improve the velocities.

Hi Snow,
The Jet looks like it has the features others have been recommending. I only have one jet tool - a contractor style table saw that I put on wheels and wheel outside to work "al fresco". It's not as sturdy as the old cast iron unisaws or powermatic, but I wouldn't want to push them around the yard. It has never given me any problems.
Sooner or later you will want 220v in the shop. 110v is not as efficient for carrying heavy loads, and when motors are bigger than a horse and a half the typical 110v circuits can't handle it.

Yup. Made plans to get it wired
I appreciate all the input folks.


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If you are going to stick with this and use tools like a drum sander eventually you will want end up with something like a Clearview. They really are hugely better than a 2hp double bagger or a smaller cyclone.

If you can't swing the funds now and are going to rewire 220 for a smaller unit, at least pull 10g and a 30A breaker for when you eventually upgrade. The incremental cost isnt much and it will spare you costs later.

This one is on the way


Jet DC-1200VX-CK1


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That’s awesome! I’m in the midst of a similar project...

One thing that fella could have added to his rig is a clear plastic bag at the bottom of his filter column. Cyclones collect the majority of chips and dust, but the really fine dust will make it to the filter area and drop out there. Not to be too critical - his is better than what I use.