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I got a 1903 Stanley #6 a few 10’s of dollars, and ordered a replacement knob. The most expensive part was a replacement Veritas blade. Modified the throat to fit the blade, and machined the sides to 90 degrees to the sole. Freaking awesome!

But, it’s not the plane, its the shooting board. Once I built my Rob Cosman shooting board, coupled with the plane, I can hand joint better than my jointer. I could actually use a short plane because of the design of the shooting board. You could actually use a sanding board if you design it to work with the shooting board ie: sandpaper doesn’t go to the bottom edge.

https://youtu.be/YyfvygylyJg

Thanks for sharing that video, Aaron. I think I will upgrade my shooting board!

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I don't use my shooting board to often. The only time I do is when the outter and inner edges of the plates are not parallel and there is not enough wood to saw them that way.

The way I do it is make the sides of the plates parallel on the table saw, removing as little as possible. Then I put a strip of sticky back sandpaper right on the table of the saw. Then slide the fence over the paper and use pressure to keep the plate against the fence (keeping the edge flush). After that all there is to do is very the down pressure on the plate as others have said, get them to candle properly, and glue 'em up.

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Joe Beaver
Maker of Sawdust

I have about 5/6 shooting boards I use regularly for various purpoises, jointing plates, edging FBs, 15 and 10 degree angles for headplates, 22.5 for rosette segments, small 90 degrees for various, another medium one with large endstop for rib joints...
Handy things.

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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.

For various porpoises... I see!

What was your sequence for buffing his forehead - turned out well

Ed

Best looking waterborne finish I've seen in a long time.

Ed, I just waved a can of tuna (line caught of course) at it, followed by a wet mackerel, and that was the result.

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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.

For wood that doesn’t like to plane nicely (like grabby Osage Orange), I bought an extra plane blade and sharpened it with the 30 degree microbevel on the back side effectively making the plane blade angle much steeper. It makes a big difference in jointing. It still has to be very sharp, but the back bevel really reduces that grabbing tendency that some woods have.

I keep a 20 degree back bevel on my no 5 plane blade for exactly the same purpose. May try 30 degree, thanks.

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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.

I have one iron with a slight back bevel of about 7 degrees. I never would have thought of going as steep as 30 degrees that would give an effective cutting angle of 75 degrees. I guess I should feel free to go steeper.

I would thing this would be especially well suited for jointing plates since they are so narrow. The extra cutting angle wouldn't be too hard to push through such a narrow cut.

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Bryan Bear PMoMC

Take care of your feet, and your feet will take care of you.

I use a very sharp, low angle Veritas jack plane, about 15" long on a shooting board that is set up to hold the tops/backs with one end slightly higher than the other (someone had published photos of one of these shooting boards here some years ago, Todd Stock?). My plane is set to take very thin shavings, just a few thousandths. Doesn't take much, before using the plane I prep the plates on my little Cutech spiral-head jointer. So far I haven't run into any problems with figured wood but for me, I think the key is taking very fine cuts.

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Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"

Great video. I watched it a few days ago and have already built a shooting board similar to that. You can use it with the straight edge guide, for the edge of the plane, as Bob does, or just move the piece you are working over 1/4" and do it free hand without a guide. I also use the same shooting board with the 18" sanding beam from Stewmac. If I can't get a difficult edge straight with the plane, I can get it close with the plane and finish up with the sanding beam. If you want to use the straight edge guide on the shooting board to ride against the beam, just leave the paper off the lower edge of the beam.

As SteveSmith says, the key is to take fine cuts, and the key to that is a sharp plane.

One problem with using a very high cutting angle is that you're getting closer to scraping than shearing. Scraping tends to burnish the wood surface, compressing the fibers rather than simply cutting them off. It's a far better surface to glue to than a sanded one, but not nearly as good as one that was produced with a sharp plane. Not having the wherewithal to get a really close look at the surfaces produced by planes with different secondary bevel angles I can't say where the transition is; it's probably not a sharp divide at any rate.

I used a very small secondary bevel on my joiner plane iron, maybe at a 5-7 degree angle. I just do it by hand on the finest stone, so I can't be more exact. I also use that plane for most of my surfacing, and particularly on hardwoods, so it's always set up for hard, figured woods and a light cut. For joining I just touch up the iron to get it as sharp as possible.

And here is Bill Carter's (woodworker and plane maker extraordinaire) Blunt Chisel Technique. It's a 90° cutting edge

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=re_bp5Lp0To

Handy for bridge's and other small items

Ed

That is superb, going to try that

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