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How in the WORLD do you get the last little hump (right before it goes into the clip) out of the paper?
Jet 10-20



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Ha, I was just working with my 10-20 yesterday. I don't worry about the hump and get uniform thickness across the plate. I think it's pulled tight when the drum is in motion.

I did have a brand new roll snap at that connection for me---a recurring problem.

Mine is a delta, but same type of clip. I use 90deg bent needlenose pliers to snug it up from below the clip. Sand a little, then snug it up a second time.

That’s the thing... seems you can’t push it through. Really needs to be pulled!


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I filed the edge of the slot round cos it's too sharp. When fitting I wrap it as neatly/tight as I can, mark where the start of the slot is and bend the abrasive there before clipping it in. Push the abrasive flat at the slot with a eraser or small cotk faced block. Run, pass a cleaner (rubber) across the belt and retighten both end clips

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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.

Maybe that sharp edge on the slot doesn't help?
I filed mine to round it off.

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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.

The edge toward the outside of the drum ?


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The way I did it with that sander is: First get it to where you have it, which is that the tail of the paper is going into the right place in the clip, and when you release the clip, it grabs the paper, but leaves some slack. Then go back, smooth the paper forward, make sure all slack in the paper is concentrated at that one spot, right before the clip, and trap it there with your left hand. Then, while holding all of that slack between your left hand and the clip, reach in and open the clip, push the extra slack forward, then release the clip. Go back and move the paper around to even out any slack left. It should work fine after that.

It should have a spring mechanism that pull it tight. Doesn't it? Sometimes you have to cut the tip of the paper a bit shorter because it hits the back wall of the locking champer pushing it out. Or jsut fold it up a bit.

Does that clip have slack take up? I have found that I need to ensure the clip has not reached the end of its travel.
Typically after each paper change I would run a sacrificial piece through, two or three times, then check that the clip still has some tension.
I am using a supermax, but I believe the jet and performax use the same type of of clip.

B

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My memory is so good, sometimes I remember things that never happened.

The edge of the slot which the abrasive dives over towards the clip - both slots

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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.

Hmm. I have a delta which has spring clips.

I start on the right hand side. Clip it in, wrap it, clip in. Take a pass or two, then stop and retighten the left hand side.

Are you starting the wrap on the left hand side?

I started on the left but I’ve gone back and forth a few times
Oddly the right side seems to be the only side that pulls the belt. The left just clips.


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Well, I thought I posted this, but I do not see it.

Consequences of not getting the belt tight and this spot flat can be: 1)Flexing of kink in paper by wood passing over can tear the paper. The loose end will whip around and gouge wood; 2) Paper can slip sideways in some spots and overlap, thus causing the depth of sanding the go deeper. I have done both.

Jet advised me to always check the paper after using it a short time to pull it tight again and make sure there is no slack and no kink. This is applicable even if you think it is flat and tight when first installed.

I start on the left and finish on the take up clip, after a pass or two any slack in the paper shows up on the right.

B

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My memory is so good, sometimes I remember things that never happened.

I think I’ve about gotten it sorted


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I usually get it to the point where you got it. Then press firmly where the transition should be (to make an indentation/mark), take the end out of the clip and then fully crease where it was marked. Then I reinsert it into the sprint clip. That usually works for me.

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-Marcus
http://www.bailieguitars.com
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Just did mine a couple of weeks ago for the first time and noticed that the paper when it enters the slot needs to be notched to accommodate the clip. So when you pass it through the clip a.) It fits through without sticking to the sides of the clip and b.) The notch when pushed through the clip, latches onto the inner edge. I've used the drum sander for a couple of tops and braces since and apart from the stretch after the first run have had no issue.
Hope this helps