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bcombs510
PostPosted: Sun Feb 16, 2020 5:55 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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First name: Brad
Last Name: Combs
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Has anyone tried or seen someone using a router table to slot a fretboard. I have been using fretboards from Andy B for a while but I’m building some Ukes and need to slot 3 boards. I have the SM fret slotting blade which I’ve used in the past, but since the last time I used it I upgraded to a sawstop and it won’t start if the blade isn’t at least 8”.

Would a .026 router bit let you slide across it in a sled? Seems like it would maybe snap off. Maybe I’ll have to buy a small table saw just for this, which is a bummer but could be OK I guess.

Brad


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Hans Mattes
PostPosted: Sun Feb 16, 2020 7:04 pm 
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I slot fretboards with a router using a 0.6mm (0.024") end mill. To prevent breakage, I've needed to shorten the cutting portion of the end mill to 0.15", to restrict each cutting pass to 0.02", and to cut at 0.15"/sec. I can do that because my router is mounted in a CNC machine. While it might be possible to control the router manually, I don't have the skill or the patience to do that. YMMV.

But if you're considering getting "a small table saw just for this," give some thought to a CNC machine instead. It's much more flexible. Fan frets, for example. And many other luthier tasks.


These users thanked the author Hans Mattes for the post: bcombs510 (Sun Feb 16, 2020 8:36 pm)
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bobgramann
PostPosted: Sun Feb 16, 2020 7:05 pm 
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I had the Blade Mfg Company make me a 10” fret slotting blade for my SawStop. I asked for a .023” kerf. They delivered one that cut about .021”. I had to put some set in it to get the .023”. It works fine. The cost was a bit over $100.


These users thanked the author bobgramann for the post: bcombs510 (Sun Feb 16, 2020 8:36 pm)
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bcombs510
PostPosted: Sun Feb 16, 2020 8:40 pm 
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bobgramann wrote:
I had the Blade Mfg Company make me a 10” fret slotting blade for my SawStop. I asked for a .023” kerf. They delivered one that cut about .021”. I had to put some set in it to get the .023”. It works fine. The cost was a bit over $100.


Thanks, Bob. Did you choose a fully custom blade from them or start from one of their existing categories? Is there a model number from your invoice you could share that they might be able to reference if I called in?

Brad


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Clay S.
PostPosted: Sun Feb 16, 2020 8:44 pm 
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You could buy a 3 3/8th inch makita saw blade and build a fixed arbor table saw around it:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-3-3- ... /204382617

Or you could buy the saw that goes with it and mount it under a table board and make a sliding sled. The little saw is a handy tool to have so if you make it easily dismountable you can use it for a lot of other things too.


These users thanked the author Clay S. for the post: TimAllen (Mon Feb 17, 2020 2:11 am)
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Mike OMelia
PostPosted: Sun Feb 16, 2020 10:58 pm 
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bcombs510 wrote:
Has anyone tried or seen someone using a router table to slot a fretboard. I have been using fretboards from Andy B for a while but I’m building some Ukes and need to slot 3 boards. I have the SM fret slotting blade which I’ve used in the past, but since the last time I used it I upgraded to a sawstop and it won’t start if the blade isn’t at least 8”.

Would a .026 router bit let you slide across it in a sled? Seems like it would maybe snap off. Maybe I’ll have to buy a small table saw just for this, which is a bummer but could be OK I guess. Brad,

Brad


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Brad, I was hoping to upgrade to a sawstop as well, did not know about this blade diameter issue, please keep us informed. Which sawstop model did u get?
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Mike OMelia
PostPosted: Sun Feb 16, 2020 11:00 pm 
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bobgramann wrote:
I had the Blade Mfg Company make me a 10” fret slotting blade for my SawStop. I asked for a .023” kerf. They delivered one that cut about .021”. I had to put some set in it to get the .023”. It works fine. The cost was a bit over $100.

What does that mean "put some set in it"?
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doncaparker
PostPosted: Sun Feb 16, 2020 11:42 pm 
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It means bending the teeth to splay out a bit past the thickness of the body of the blade. You alternate the teeth; one goes left, the next goes right. On hand saws, this keeps the blade from binding. It increases the size of the kerf.
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bcombs510
PostPosted: Mon Feb 17, 2020 7:53 am 
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First name: Brad
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Mike OMelia wrote:
Which sawstop model did u get?


Hey Mike, I got a nice deal from an Amazon overstock item. It’s the contractor model with the cast iron wings and extended table. I then bought a cast iron router wing. For my use it works great because I can use the surface for other things when not cutting and it reduced the overall footprint of the router and table saw that I had before.

The vac hose on the blade guard moves over to the fence on the router and the hose on the saw moves over to the box below the router.

Here’s a couple pics of the setup:

Image

Image

Brad


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These users thanked the author bcombs510 for the post (total 2): Pmaj7 (Mon Feb 17, 2020 1:04 pm) • James Orr (Mon Feb 17, 2020 10:12 am)
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bobgramann
PostPosted: Mon Feb 17, 2020 1:40 pm 
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First name: Bob
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City: Fredericksburg
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There was no model number that I’m aware of. I just called them and talked to them about what I wanted. We figured it out and they made it. It involved grinding down the edge of a normal thickness blank and cutting teeth into it. They were easy to work with and I would go to them first if I needed another custom blade.


These users thanked the author bobgramann for the post: bcombs510 (Mon Feb 17, 2020 2:35 pm)
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