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Question... following the first lore fill and sand back should I dilute the epoxy a little bit? Would it help it flow better to get into the increasingly small pores?
B


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I apply two coats, first is full strength, sand back to wood, second is diluted with DA. Often I will apply a third coat highly diluted (mostly alcohol) to enhance grain. Been told its all wrong but I like what I get

http://www.tdpri.com/threads/zpoxy-for- ... nt.940522/

Yes sir I learned that SUPER thin coat does a fantastic job of color matching anything that needs to be handled
Thank you for your reply


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That's exactly what I do although some woods like really porous Brazilian RW take up to three full strength coats.

Depending on the wood, I do two full strength coats (three if needed) and follow with a wiped-on coat of z-poxy diluted 1:1 with denatured alcohol.

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Once in a while you get shown the light in the strangest of places if you look at it right - Robert Hunter

I haven't diluted epoxy in many years. I don't see the need for it the way I apply. This is how I do it.

I wipe the guitar down with DNA, then I warm a section at a time with a hair dryer, (as in the back or one side, or the neck). This drives the moisture out and makes amine blush unlikely in all but very humid conditions.

Once I warm one section I proceed with the epoxy. I spread a thin layer of epoxy with a plastic spreader followed by a squeegee. Then I immediately warm the epoxy with the hair dryer being careful not to get it too warm. If it does it can easily bubble which is bad, then I lightly brush it once with a good quality foam brush. This will pick up excess and smooth ridges. You don't want to go back over it with the brush or re-heat. It will be a mess

I let the first coat dry just until it can be handled without imprinting, usually 4 hours depending on conditions. Then I repeat the same way except I skip the DNA and the first 'warm-up'.

I continue on, trying to get three coats in a day. Done this way the epoxy will be thin and smooth and chemically bond between layers. Then I let it cure for a few days followed by level sanding, etc.

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Joe Beaver
Maker of Sawdust

I use 2/3 coats to pore fill depending on how it goes, then after last coat has been sanded, I use 2/3 quick coats with about a 10:1 dilution with Isopropyl alcohol to even the colour from any sand though.
Them just scuff with scotchbrite to key for finish.

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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.