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PostPosted: Wed Feb 13, 2019 6:57 pm 
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Koa
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Its embarrassing to say I’ve done this....
measured MULTIPLE times and it still happened.
I’m toward the end of a build and I’ve located the bridge in the wrong place. It is about 1/8 inch too close to the sound hole.

The Finish is applied em6000.
2 locator holes drilled.
—————
What I HAVE done:
1- located the CORRECT position
2-used a spiral downcut to get most of the em6000 cut off level with the top along the bottom of the bridge profile where it should go. I’ll carefully sand any remaining finish around the parameter
——————
What I PLAN to do:
Mark top of correct location of bridge and tape. Sand any unlevel areas from the current lacquer “lip” and brush on lacquer until it is level.
_______________
What I’m not sure HOW TO fix:
The locator holes are too close to where the ACTUAL holes need to go for comfort so I need to plug / fill those.
———————
Any help is much appreciated .... this makes me sick, and I can’t believe I did it.

The good part is I didn’t glue on the bridge / do any level or buff finishing yet and end up w a very poorly intonated instrument.



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PostPosted: Wed Feb 13, 2019 6:59 pm 
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Koa
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. Double


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 13, 2019 7:36 pm 
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Is there room in your existing bridge footprint to move the saddle slot back 1/8"?

It may be possible to either fill and reroute the existing slot, or make a new bridge with the slot located 1/8 farther back.

This is why it's helpful to build a jig once you've got one right, then you can just repeat and skip mistakes like this...



These users thanked the author meddlingfool for the post (total 2): Pmaj7 (Fri Feb 15, 2019 12:37 pm) • SnowManSnow (Wed Feb 13, 2019 8:05 pm)
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 13, 2019 7:44 pm 
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meddlingfool wrote:
It may be possible to either fill and reroute the existing slot, or make a new bridge with the slot located 1/8 farther back.


I was wondering the same, but it reads like he may have already increased the size of the area of the removed finish to move the whole bridge back 1/8" and has to fill in the finish gap on the leading edge of the bridge. Is this correct SnowMan?

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These users thanked the author J De Rocher for the post: SnowManSnow (Wed Feb 13, 2019 8:05 pm)
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 13, 2019 8:03 pm 
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J De Rocher wrote:
meddlingfool wrote:
It may be possible to either fill and reroute the existing slot, or make a new bridge with the slot located 1/8 farther back.


I was wondering the same, but it reads like he may have already increased the size of the area of the removed finish to move the whole bridge back 1/8" and has to fill in the finish gap on the leading edge of the bridge. Is this correct SnowMan?

Well the bridge is premade so it Has the bridge slot cut already
I guess I just have to dowel it


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 13, 2019 8:13 pm 
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You could make a bridge that is 1/8th inch wider. Often a slightly larger bridge is used when a bridge is replaced to cover finish damage.


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 13, 2019 8:32 pm 
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Just to be clear so that suggestions fit the situation, is the finish for the bridge footprint already removed from the top and does it correspond to a footprint area 1/8" wider than your bridge? If so, making a new bridge to fit the footprint as suggested above would be a good option. Is the bridge a simple rectangle shape?

An example of how to fill the holes is shown here: https://www.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10137&t=46758&p=619096&hilit=fill+bridge+pin+holes#p619096

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 13, 2019 8:45 pm 
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Lets see some pics!


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 13, 2019 8:51 pm 
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Koa
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Sorry guys I just got home from work .
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 13, 2019 8:52 pm 
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The line at the top is pencil and is where it NEEDS to sit
I had previously removed finish on the bottom edge

The holes are really what I’m asking about.
I can’t really drill the others wo it being too close to them


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 13, 2019 8:53 pm 
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Koa
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Please don’t tell me to burn it haha
This was a foolish error that won’t happen again



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PostPosted: Wed Feb 13, 2019 9:45 pm 
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You don't need the holes-I've glued 100 bridges on without locator pins.



These users thanked the author Brad Goodman for the post: SnowManSnow (Wed Feb 13, 2019 10:26 pm)
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 13, 2019 10:28 pm 
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Just plug with wooden dowels.



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PostPosted: Wed Feb 13, 2019 10:28 pm 
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Brad Goodman wrote:
You don't need the holes-I've glued 100 bridges on without locator pins.

It’s just how I’ve been doing it. They are the outside pin holes. Not something that I have to do.

I have actually filled them w dowels and chiseled / sanded smooth. So they are smooth / flat

Really the only issue now will be the lawyer line at the top. I’ll need to add lacquer to fill in between there and the proper placement. I’d like that line to disappear but I realize it may be visible when done


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 13, 2019 10:29 pm 
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doncaparker wrote:
Just plug with wooden dowels.

Yes... for me this was a stressful kind of thing but it was easier than I thought.



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PostPosted: Wed Feb 13, 2019 10:54 pm 
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I just had to plug some bridge pin holes on a repair I am doing . I think dowels are OK but plugs are probably preferable as the grain is running the same direction as the wood you are plugging especially if you need to redrill in the area of the plug. With dowels it sometimes seems like when re-drilling the drill kind of shatters the dowel if it hits it or it can pull the bit off center since you are hitting end grain..

I found a thread on Frets.net that showed a really neat way by David Farmer to shape a custom plug as the hole may not be a true 3/16 or whatever. I have used his technique and it works great. There are additional ideas in the thread using brass tubing as a plug cutter and that works well too if the diameters match.

http://fretsnet.ning.com/forum/topics/s ... ug-cutters

If you want to anchor a bridge for gluing and have already cut the saddle slot you can drill a 1/16" hole in each end of the saddle slot with the bridge taped in the correct position and use 1.4mm nails from Ace Hardware to pin the bridge in position. for a really snug fit you can cut off a 1.6mm nail and chuck it in your drill to expand the 1/16" hole and then use a 1.6mm nail to pin the bridge. That gives a very snug fit with absolutely no play.

If the holes are off drilling new ones is no biggie as opposed to bridge pin holes.

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These users thanked the author Terence Kennedy for the post: SnowManSnow (Wed Feb 13, 2019 11:47 pm)
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 13, 2019 11:04 pm 
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On the HGTV show Home Town, in the husband’s workshop, there’s a sign that says: measure once, cuss twice.

The good thing is that this particular mistake is one you will never, ever make again.


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 13, 2019 11:49 pm 
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Man, I wish you'd posted before you removed more finish, because you could easily have used the existing footprint and simply moved the saddle slot back 1/8"...

Anyway, hopefully the new finish melds with the old in a not too obvious way...


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 14, 2019 12:32 am 
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He didn’t make the bridge so maybe he doesn’t have a jig to or know how to route the saddle slot wider...


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 14, 2019 7:18 am 
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Rod True wrote:
He didn’t make the bridge so maybe he doesn’t have a jig to or know how to route the saddle slot wider...


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This. I haven’t gotten into making the bridges yet. It’s kind of the last thing I need to mark off.
These were from Andy B. Super sexy bridges. So I’m working with what I know how to do.

And the previous poster was right. It shouldn’t happen again. I did however measure several times for this . I’m not sure what got bumped or when. :/




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PostPosted: Thu Feb 14, 2019 9:11 am 
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You made a whole guitar, the bridge will be easy compared to that. ;)

Nice looking silky top BTW.



These users thanked the author jfmckenna for the post: SnowManSnow (Thu Feb 14, 2019 9:53 am)
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 14, 2019 10:41 am 
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With the possibility of the bit drifting when drilling new holes from hitting end grain (or harder wood if the dowels aren't as soft as spruce), you could use built up tape to locate the bridge. Binding tape works well for this, to build up ledges front/back and left/right. Several layers are needed to make sure the bridge doesn't end up on top of the tape. Use blue tape or other low-tack tape for the first layer, then binding tape above that. It's my go-to method. Never used any other.

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These users thanked the author Pat Foster for the post: SnowManSnow (Thu Feb 14, 2019 10:47 am)
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 14, 2019 12:36 pm 
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Andy can put the saddle slot wherever you need it...

FWIW, I use the outer string holes to keep bridges in place while clamping...



These users thanked the author meddlingfool for the post: SnowManSnow (Thu Feb 14, 2019 1:01 pm)
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 14, 2019 12:43 pm 
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viewtopic.php?f=10101&t=45926&p=608005&hilit=Super+simple+bridge#p607920

Hope this link works. It shows the very simple solution for locating the bridge correctly every time without having to think about it...


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 14, 2019 1:06 pm 
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You're going to have to plug/repair the bridge plate too, right?

I went through this on my last build because I mounted the bridge in the wrong spot too.

I invested in the StewMac bridge saver, not cheap but did a great job.

Good luck.

https://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/T ... Saver.html

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These users thanked the author klooker for the post: SnowManSnow (Thu Feb 14, 2019 1:47 pm)
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