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No sure what number it is????
It is Spruce over good ol’ sapelle. Simple rosette. Nothing fancy here. Just trying to get a tight build. Binding is flame maple. No purfling.









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Lookin' good.

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Steve Sollod (pronounced sorta like "Solid")
www.swiftcreekguitars.com

I've built several out of Sapele. It makes a fine sounding guitar. Love the shape. The end graft is very nice. Bracing might be on the heavy side but who am I to say?

Looks like you are off to a great start.

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Joe Beaver
Maker of Sawdust

Btw. My binding was SUPPOSE to be a good bit thinner (top to bottom) than it is/.... then my router base slipped AGAIN. I’m not sure how that keeps happening w my colt. I thought I had fixed the stupid thing


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Came close to making a perfect joint where the bindings touch on the back but alas... it’s simply very close


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You’re not supposed to lose count!!

Ha I know.... ummmm I’ll call it 9 then


Maple binding installed:)
I’ll “flush” it tomorrow.



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This never slips. I never understood the need for anything else.

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Hutch

Get the heck off the couch and go build a guitar!!!!

There is an arrow on the base near the top that needs to point to the lock icon before you close the locking lever. I had the same thing happen to me.

Hutch—

The reason I prefer concentric bearings instead of a guide finger is because, with a guide finger, getting the horizontal depth of cut to stay consistent takes a bit more work. You always have to keep the workpiece perpendicular to the guide finger, and with curved surfaces, that can take a few passes to make sure you consistently cut as deep as possible. With concentric bearings on the cutter, that is never an issue. Both can get the job done.

Yea. It is locked/ was. No real foul this time thankfully.
I’ve got to figure out what’s happening w that thing


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The difference is that with a binding cutter the router follows the curvature of the sides so that your channels are the same all the way around. It floats on top as you push it through.


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I know you build mandolins, can you show me a picture of a F5 sitting in that? I find I need a floating router that indexes off the top or bottom because I build all sorts of arched top or recurved instruments but I would love to be able to do it with a router table.

I wish I could but I don't take pics while I'm working. All I do is rest the edge of the instrument on the tongue and try to keep the instrument level by eye and feel as I go around. It's not as difficult as it sounds.

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Hutch

Get the heck off the couch and go build a guitar!!!!

A few updates







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And the sanding block I made ha:)



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Love it all


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Lookin good Snow!

New username, same ole Pat Macaluso!

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Pat

Thanks pat
At number 8 I’m noticing I’m more capable of fixing my boo boos ha:)
Definitely the best binding job so far;) no gaps!!


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You got me thinking about my method of holding. I may try a masonite ring just inside of the binding ledge to keep it level. Then I could get rid of the tongue part and just use the side stop. I'm not sure it's needed but I may give it a try and see if I notice a difference. This jig is so I easy to make and use. I can't imagine how these new fangled ones can be any better except be able to see the cut which doesn't seem to be an advantage to me.

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Hutch

Get the heck off the couch and go build a guitar!!!!

Sometime the bit will slip in the chuck making the cut deeper. This can happen if you seat the bit all the way into the chuck until it touches bottom. You should never do that, but stick it in til it touches, then pull it back out about 1/16", then tighten the hell out of the chuck

I heard putting an o-ring on the shaft solves the problem of putting the bit in too far.

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Hutch

Get the heck off the couch and go build a guitar!!!!

Now that's a nice sanding block.

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Hutch

Get the heck off the couch and go build a guitar!!!!

I wanted to test out some tru oil finish:$)


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