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Fretted a board and had a half dozen that were not well seated. Took them all out, leveled the board again, and checked the slots, and am ready to re-install. Before I took then out, I filed the ends even with the binding on this bound board, then bevelled just a touch.

Is there a good way to get these frets back into their slots so I don't end up with a short and and a long end?

Thanks

Ed

I"m no repair guru but my instinct tells me I probably would ditch the removed frets and replace them with slightly longer ones.
The little extra could then be filed flush to the others with no worries. Wonder what the repair folk think:)

At worst, I would move them up the board to the next position that was slightly shorter, then replace the longest - #19 in this case. But I have seen a couple of builders who cut the lengths and round the ends before installing, so there must be a way.

Ed

Gotcha, I'm not much help then. I do think you're right tho, "there must be a way." I'll stay tuned right here
for the answer.

When I have a fret pop loose after filing the ends I just place it back in the slot and let the "barbs" position it and tell me if I have it the right way around. If it is the wrong way around the fret will usually be noticeably off one side and the other.

I am one of those builders, and there's no trick to it. Just put the fret where you want it and hammer it in.

The barb scars in the slot can cause trouble if the barbs are very close to them, and want to realign to the old grooves. Although in your case, it might help you get them back exactly where they were originally. You can also turn the fret around, and usually the barbs will be aligned differently relative to the old grooves in the wood.

Hadn't thought of the barb groove theory - I'll give it a try

Thanks

Ed

I’d use new freshly radiused fret wire and use hide glue injected into the slot with a syringe and needle. The bottled Stuff is fine for frets.

Do you know why they were high?

_________________
It's not what you don't know that hurts you, it's what you do know that's wrong.

If you can re-radius the pulled frets, you may be able to reinstall. I would use new fretwire.

there comes a point where saving a penny may cost a dollar use new frets
I break the corner of the fret slot with a file then spray with water , allow a few minutes then use glue as a filler and lube it helps the barbs slip in and seat.

_________________
John Hall
blues creek guitars
Authorized CF Martin Repair
Co President of ASIA
You Don't know what you don't know until you know it

Thanks all

I installed an abalone strip down each side, then binding. I re-cut the slots after the abalone and unintentionally made them a little wide. I used Old Brown Glue (liquid hide) and I did not clamp long enough. I went blithely on my way down the fretboard and didn't notice that some had popped up. Look here and back one:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/ruby1638/43000477871/in/album-72157688488198220/

Ed

Ed, FWIW ,I use fish glue to lube, and a diamond triangular file from HF to create a slight bevelled opening for the fret to seat. I use a plastic hammer fromHF to secure the fret and then use a radioused caul from stew mac in an arbor press for the final press inn . I use a machinests 45 -90 machined gauge to check for flatness on at least 3 frets, I double check when finished with a moore and wright or other suitable machinests straightedge. I find the worst offenders for proper seating of frets is the uber thin frets used on mandos ukes and dulcimers , they are a total PITA and frequently resist seating properly especially in very hdwds like ebony . Hope it works !!!

when working with pearl on the fretboard I use CA or tite bond with ebony. Prefer the ca

_________________
John Hall
blues creek guitars
Authorized CF Martin Repair
Co President of ASIA
You Don't know what you don't know until you know it

John

My daughter recommended medium density CA and that is what I am using. Her observations is that it is pressure that kicks the glue, so it will sit in liquid state in the slot until you install in the fret. I use a polished cobbler's hammer and they are seating very nicely but I have been clamping a curved caul on them for a couple of hours TO BE SURE, even though she suggested 5 minutes would be enough.

Thanks all - It's only a mistake if you can't fix it

Ed

I used to crank out three guitars a day in a factory warranty shop: pull the frets, make the board flat, tap the frets back in, just enough fret work to fix any buzzing frets and make it look good. It never seemed to be a problem getting the frets centered. As I recall, I started at one end of the fret and didn't proceed unless that end was perfect.

On refrets where the 13th or 15th fret will be pulled for neck removal and reset after the neck is on, we do exactly as we do to mark the ends of nuts, saddles, or other easily reversed components...we use a Sharpie to put a dot on the treble end (on top of fret; underside of nut or saddle, etc.). If a 'memory jogger' mark was not applied, it is easy enough to do as other suggested and dry-fit to determine how the fret must have come out.

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For the times they are a changin'

- Bob Dylan