Official Luthiers Forum!

Finally cut some wood for this project. The birch ply for the mold cut into ~12" X 24". Need to buy one more layer today and cut that. 3 layers is enough right? I'm going to copy the plan on the printer at work to get the outline to glue on to the first piece which will become the template for the rest. They say on the plan "Reference Only Use dimensions" but there aren't any dimensions for the body to check against. Can someone give me those.? It's the StewMac plan for a dread.

Here's my stuff for your discerning eyes.





This is a close up of the mineral deposits I'll be dealing with. These are all Martin seconds EIR back and sides.

_________________
Hutch

Get the heck off the couch and go build a guitar!!!!

This is an addictive pursuit.. It's not too late to step away...

Here's a thread on dealing with mineral deposits that happened a few weeks ago.

viewtopic.php?f=10101&t=50643

Best, M

The plans may be scaled. They will give you critical dimensions on the plans - scale length, fret spacing, neck dimensions - those should be adhered to. Everything else can be scaled. Remember that these are generic plans - there are many models and configurations of dreadnaughts and you plans may not be the exact model that you are emulating. However for a first guitar it will be good enough.

I guess as long as it fits in a case when I'm done. I have a D28 case I can check it in at my daughters house.

_________________
Hutch

Get the heck off the couch and go build a guitar!!!!

Congrats on getting started! Yes, three layers for you body mold is enough assuming the plywood is 3/4" thick. You want to have enough room on the guitar sides above and below the mold to clamp the kerfed lining.

_________________
Once in a while you get shown the light in the strangest of places if you look at it right - Robert Hunter

I was originally planning on bending my sides on my SM bender but after cutting the outside mold and seeing that I have 80% of a fox bender sitting on my bench, I guess I need a heat blanket now I can't afford the good ones right now so I'm going to start with the Chinese knock-offs I see on ebay for ~$50. Does anyone have any experience with these blankets? I'm not concerned with the controllers, I'll be setting it to it's max and standing there watching and waiting.

_________________
Hutch

Get the heck off the couch and go build a guitar!!!!

Can't help with the cheap blanket - I bought mine from John Hall (Bluescreek) along with the controller and timer and it has served me well for a couple dozen guitars. I think you will find both are helpful, you bring your sides up to temperature then back off the controller to maintain the desired heat for an amount of time before shutting it off.





John has a great set of tutorials on his web site that I would suggest reviewing before you bend your sides.

I use a Keenvo 1200 watt blanket (seems well made, with my own controller) and I would NOT advise leaving it at max for long at all - it'll catch fire before you can dial the fire brigade.
Seriously, at least use a router speed controller or to make one for $20 or so, see http://www.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10117&t=47715&p=630887&hilit=+temerature#p630887

_________________
The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.

Don't forget too that you can bend on a simple hot pipe and clamp against the "inside" form. I still use my hot pipes a lot for one of a kind bends and pieces of bindings

I use a Chinese heat blanket with one of these.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Digital ... autifyAB=0

Works really well.

I assume thats a thermocouple coiled up in the picture - how do you embed that in your blanket sandwich? I like the idea of having feedback from the wood being heated.

I took the soldered wire sensor out of the casing and gently tapped it flat (mine's virtually the same) In use it sits between the wood and the paper.

_________________
The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.

I use a Keenovo blanket with built in controller. Works very well. I see it goes for about £60 in the UK but bound to be available elsewhere.

Dave