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fingerstyle1978
 Post subject: Cocobolo and Titebond?
PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2018 1:55 pm 
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HHG Mahogany bracing failed while carving so I removed them and re-attached with Gorilla glue. I'm ready to close the box and would like to use Titebond but I'm hesitant to do so. Am I better off using Gorilla glue?
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meddlingfool
PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2018 2:17 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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I've had success with tb, but I clamp it for 24hrs..
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Dave Livermore
PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2018 2:54 pm 
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I have seen mention of wiping coco down with naptha before glueing because of oil content.

However, after switching to Elmers Carpenters glue, I have never had an issue.
Got the tip from my coco supplier and never looked back.
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Joe Beaver
PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2018 5:43 pm 
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I have not had a problem with titebond and Coco but I do wipe with DNA first and I make sure the surfaces are freshly prepped. I like what Dave says and think I'll try it on the next one.

As far as gorilla glue goes, I haven't tried it.

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meddlingfool
PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2018 5:58 pm 
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I've read from numerous experienced builders that wiping with naphtha/acetone just brings oils to the surface, and that you're better off sticking with freshly scraped/sand wood...
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Freeman
PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2018 6:28 pm 
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I just built a cocobolo guitar and right before any gluing I scraped the surface, wiped with acetone, then glued with titebond. The rag with the acetone alway had a redish color, it was definitely picking up something. Joints all seemed good, however when I scraped squeeze out it kind of chipped off the surface of the coco. The binding is coco with a maple strip - I used thin CA for binding.
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Joe Beaver
PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2018 12:34 am 
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meddlingfool wrote:
I've read from numerous experienced builders that wiping with naphtha/acetone just brings oils to the surface, and that you're better off sticking with freshly scraped/sand wood...

Yeah, I've heard that but I'm not so sure I buy in.

To me the concept of using DNA or other solvent is that it takes away the surface oils giving the TB a chance to grab onto wood, then the glue dries bonding to the wood and yes, the oils migrate back but to no avail. The titebond is bonded. At least that is my theory. (I have been wrong before)

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Joe Beaver
PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2018 12:47 am 
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Freeman wrote:
Joints all seemed good, however when I scraped squeeze out it kind of chipped off the surface of the coco. The binding is coco with a maple strip - I used thin CA for binding.

With any titebond joint the key is clamp pressure. That forces the glue into the wood fibers. Without clamp pressure, as in squeeze out, and a wood that is not overly receptive to PVA, like coco, I can see that being the case.

I'm just not sure there is anything better than Titebond on Coco, except maybe an oily wood formulated epoxy. I know the repairman would hate to see that being used.

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Last edited by Joe Beaver on Mon Apr 16, 2018 1:08 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Glenn LaSalle
PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2018 8:01 am 
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I am building 2 coco guitars. I am using fish glue, and making sure I scrape the surfaces prior to gluing. So far no issues, including closing the box.

Glenn


These users thanked the author Glenn LaSalle for the post: bcombs510 (Mon Apr 16, 2018 9:01 am)
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bcombs510
PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2018 9:02 am 
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Glenn LaSalle wrote:
I am building 2 coco guitars. I am using fish glue, and making sure I scrape the surfaces prior to gluing. So far no issues, including closing the box.

Glenn


Good to hear. I just put the back on a coco build with fish glue. :)

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meddlingfool
PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2018 2:36 pm 
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Not my thread, and I thought it was hilarious. Cats can be suck jerks.
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