Official Luthiers Forum!

Owned and operated by Lance Kragenbrink
It is currently Fri Nov 22, 2024 11:15 am


All times are UTC - 5 hours


Forum rules


Same rules apply to all forums at the Luthiers Forum.




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 9 posts ] 
Author Message
 Post subject: Leveling frets on Uke
PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2017 12:37 am 
Offline
Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood
User avatar

Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2015 8:21 am
Posts: 3593
First name: Brad
Last Name: Combs
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Hello,

I'm curious about how you folks level frets on a. Uke? When working on guitars I typically level from 1-12 (or 14) and then level the extension separate. Should that be the right approach for a Uke as well.

Brad


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

_________________
Insta - https://www.instagram.com/cbcguitars/
Facebook - https://www.facebook.com/cbcguitars


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2017 7:58 am 
Offline
Old Growth Brazilian Rosewood
Old Growth Brazilian Rosewood
User avatar

Joined: Fri Nov 02, 2007 9:49 am
Posts: 13386
Location: Ann Arbor, Michigan
First name: Hesh
Last Name: Breakstone
City: Ann Arbor
State: Michigan
Country: United States
Status: Professional
Same deal Brad but fall-away is not as important because of the nature of the higher action on a Uke. You still don't want the extension ramping up but level or some fall-away is fine.

This is the same reason why some builders never take fret work seriously because the instruments that they build depend less on good fret work by their very nature. For example a blue grass dread with mediums and typical action (Martin Spec) of 5/64th" and 7/64th" high e low e respectively won't reveal poor fret work like an electric shredder will with action of 3 and 4, 9's, and heavy handed player.....

Classical guitars, ukes, banjos, anything with higher action typically won't reveal lousy fret work to the same degree.

OTOH mandos, finger style guitars, arch tops with low action, electrics and shredders most certainly will.



These users thanked the author Hesh for the post: bcombs510 (Sun Feb 12, 2017 10:17 am)
Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2017 10:21 am 
Offline
Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood
User avatar

Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2015 8:21 am
Posts: 3593
First name: Brad
Last Name: Combs
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Makes sense. Thanks, Hesh.

With this in mind, how deep do folks cut the nut slots on a Uke? I can only assume it's not the same as a steel string. On the last Uke I built I used the half pencil idea to make "the fret line" on the front side of the nut and the took the slots to the top of that pencil line.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

_________________
Insta - https://www.instagram.com/cbcguitars/
Facebook - https://www.facebook.com/cbcguitars


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2017 10:38 am 
Offline
Old Growth Brazilian Rosewood
Old Growth Brazilian Rosewood
User avatar

Joined: Fri Nov 02, 2007 9:49 am
Posts: 13386
Location: Ann Arbor, Michigan
First name: Hesh
Last Name: Breakstone
City: Ann Arbor
State: Michigan
Country: United States
Status: Professional
bcombs510 wrote:
Makes sense. Thanks, Hesh.

With this in mind, how deep do folks cut the nut slots on a Uke? I can only assume it's not the same as a steel string. On the last Uke I built I used the half pencil idea to make "the fret line" on the front side of the nut and the took the slots to the top of that pencil line.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yep, cutting uke slots and classicals too are not as low as we go for steel string. We still cut them though and f*ctory set-ups are never cut low enough either.

Same rules apply in terms of string diameter. For fatter strings leave them higher and vice verse for the thinner stings.

There is no rule or spec here just like with steel string nut slots. As such it's a bit of a feel and experience thing. I cut them higher than steel strings but not a lot higher. I know that is not very quantifiable but at least you know not to go as low.

Why do we cut them higher? Want to get into physics? :) I cut them higher thinking that nylon strings have less mass and therefore less inertia to overcome permitting them to lash out further. This is also why action on a steel string with 9's might need to be higher for some players, not all..... with a more robust attack than with 10's.

By the way this is why some classical guys favor nut compensation at times, not always. Because classicals have nut slots cut higher by nature there is more string stretch when fretting pulling things a tad sharp and nut compensation can be helpful here. Conversely on steel strings nut compensation if the nut slots are cut really well is not something that I advocate.

Not to digress but this shines a bit of a light again on why some classical guys like compensated nuts and why steel string guys usually don't. It's worth saying as well that the benefit of a compensated nut can be reduced again by cutting nylon strings as low as possible as well.

Anyway, don't cut them as low..... for a uke....... :D



These users thanked the author Hesh for the post: bcombs510 (Sun Feb 12, 2017 10:41 am)
Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2017 10:45 am 
Offline
Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood
User avatar

Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2015 8:21 am
Posts: 3593
First name: Brad
Last Name: Combs
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Thanks, Hesh. All good information. Once we have the tech to download memories into the collective hive for all to share I will be first in line to see what you and Dave mean when you say "it's a feel and experience thing". :) For now I'll target maybe 5 thou higher on thinner and 10 on thicker strings than I go on steel strings. Sound reasonable?

Thanks as always!!

Brad


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

_________________
Insta - https://www.instagram.com/cbcguitars/
Facebook - https://www.facebook.com/cbcguitars



These users thanked the author bcombs510 for the post: Hesh (Sun Feb 12, 2017 6:52 pm)
Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2017 1:15 pm 
Offline
Contributing Member
Contributing Member
User avatar

Joined: Sat Jan 31, 2009 8:50 pm
Posts: 2257
Location: Seattle WA
Focus: Build
Status: Semi-pro
Probably .005 higher for all. If even that.

How about action? I mostly see people saying 2mm is good. 1.8mm seems about as low as I can go.

_________________
Pat



These users thanked the author Pmaj7 for the post: bcombs510 (Sun Feb 12, 2017 3:24 pm)
Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2017 7:19 pm 
Offline
Cocobolo
Cocobolo
User avatar

Joined: Tue Nov 14, 2006 4:10 am
Posts: 151
Location: United States
First name: Kevin
Last Name: Mason
City: Wheeling
State: IL
Zip/Postal Code: 60090
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Semi-pro
The target height above the 12th fret for all my ukuleles is .080" or 5-6/64". At the nut, I start relatively high, and as the instrument plays in, I dial it down to what feels comfortable, usually ending up anywhere between .014 to .020 above the first fret. But that is for my style of playing which is based on finger style with light strumming mixed in. Someone who plays aggressively will want a higher action at the 12th fret.

_________________
Kevin Mason
Mason Guitars and Ukuleles on Facebook
http://masonguitars.net



These users thanked the author Kevin Mason for the post: bcombs510 (Tue Feb 14, 2017 11:35 pm)
Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Feb 15, 2017 7:57 am 
Offline
Cocobolo
Cocobolo

Joined: Thu Feb 09, 2012 4:10 pm
Posts: 279
First name: Chris
Last Name: Reed
City: Stowmarket
State: Suffolk
Zip/Postal Code: IP14 2EX
Country: UK
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
On action at the 12th I reckon 2mm is pretty much rock bottom, unless the player fingerpicks only. 3mm for heavy handed strumming. 2.5mm is a nice compromise.



These users thanked the author profchris for the post: bcombs510 (Wed Feb 15, 2017 9:19 am)
Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Feb 15, 2017 9:22 am 
Offline
Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood
User avatar

Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2015 8:21 am
Posts: 3593
First name: Brad
Last Name: Combs
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
profchris wrote:
On action at the 12th I reckon 2mm is pretty much rock bottom, unless the player fingerpicks only. 3mm for heavy handed strumming. 2.5mm is a nice compromise.


Are you getting the 2.5 with an 1/8th drill bit at the 14th or using a 2.5mm shim on the 12th or something similar?

Thanks!
Brad

_________________
Insta - https://www.instagram.com/cbcguitars/
Facebook - https://www.facebook.com/cbcguitars


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 9 posts ] 

All times are UTC - 5 hours


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 37 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group
phpBB customization services by 2by2host.com