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Hi folks,

I'm restoring an old Martin soprano uke and I need some help with the set up. I am familiar with Martin guitar set up parameters and neck angle, but I don't know much about Martin ukes or ukes in general. I'm taking on this project so I can learn more how they work. Some questions:

What is the average string height at the 12th fret?

How little fret height can I get away with? The frets are at about .020-.025". That would be time to replace for a guitar, but what about a uke?

What is the proper neck angle, bridge height and saddle height? Right now, without strings the strait edge hits about in the middle of the bridge.

Would the neck joint be a dovetail like a Martin guitar? If so, to reset the neck then I assume I would pull the 12th fret to drill holes for the needles for steam. Could you give me an idea where the holes would go? How common is a neck set needed on a uke? Seems like not much since there are just 4 nylon strings. On the other hand they are so lightly built.

Anything else you think I need to know I would appreciate it. Thanks!!

Here is a pic of the uke. Getting started on crack repairs.

Very interesting and many thanks for launching this line of inquiry. I have my Dad's circa-1920s Martin soprano uke. I believe it is a slightly higher grade (but not much) than the example you are showing. I cannot comment on typical parameters, but if you are interested in the specific measurements of my instrument, let me know and I'll do what I can for you.

Hi Patrick, that would be great if you want to measure the specifics I asked for, but are you certain it is set up properly? If not or you aren't sure, then hopefully someone with uke experience will come along shortly!

Gil,
I'm not at all sure it's set up properly, but the last time I tried to play it, it was pretty comfortable. I'll try to send you some numbers in a day or so. Again, no idea whether they are ideal, but they might at least be a place to start for you.

Patrick

I'd go for 2.5mm at the 12th fret. If you can achieve that with 2mm or so of saddle showing, that should be close to the original factory setup. Heavy-handed strummers who rarely play above the 5th fret might prefer 3mm; 2mm is probably a bit low except for very light players because the nylon strings vibrate in a bigger arc than steel, so are likely to buzz and rattle. Sorry I can't give the numbers in thousandths.

Frets on ukes are smaller than on guitars - I'd expect almost no wear on the 10th-12th and little wear elsewhere, so if they are all close to the height of those upper frets then leave them alone except for any tidying up needed.

Neck resets aren't usually needed (see numbers in the first para) unless the body has distorted quite notably, but if needed this is a dovetail neck. Resetting I'd be setting the angle so that I could have an action between 2mm and 3mm at the 12th fret with 1-3mm of saddle above the bridge.

Thanks Chris.

Sounds good Patrick.

I just finished building one just like that.

Straight edge on frets hits top of bridge without saddle.


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Ken

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Ken

Thanks ken. Very nice looking Uke.

You are welcome. You might find it when you close up those cracks the geometry of the neck angle might change a little bit


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Ken

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Ken

Yeah maybe. Luckily there are no top cracks. I noticed one of the back braces is missing. That will be a fun repair!

Back braces take/induce a big side to side arch.




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Ken

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Ken

ANy idea what the radius is? I was planning on using friendly plastic to determine the radius but good to know what it is supposed to be by the plans.

I think i used to know but forget. The two are different radii. I have it in cad. I can analyze it if you need me to.



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Ken

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Ken

No worries...I think I can eyeball it. Thanks though.