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Does anyone use a flat sanding bar as a start to prep a body or fingerboard?

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Dean

As in a "sandpaper plane" -- length of stabilized 19mm particle board (scrap from a sub-floor panel) with P80 stuck to one side and P120 on the other? Yep, use it for all kinds of things. Needs to be straight, and with both sides covered to stay straight.


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Yep,
I can grab the two handles and use it like a plane, or flip it over and clamp it into my workmate.
For precise leveling, i use an aluminum angle extrusion about 18" long that I have checked with a precision straightedge.
The 3m stikit tape works great with these.
Dan

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I have seen these square tubes that are ground mechanically flat on two sides being sold for $40-$50 etc... and I ran across these 11" Sanding Bars from Great Planes for $13.90 incl. shipping.
They weren't perfectly flat, but I took some wet/dry sand paper and a few minuets on my inspection plate and it became .00005" flat in no time at all.

There is a 5.5" version as well for $7.98 incl.shipping. I bought one of these too and did the same thing to it.

Also I wanted to ask, what is the easiest way to make a neck rest caul like Stewart MacDonald sells? Use a router bit down the middle of a board? Or is it done another way?

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Dean

Assuming you mean this:

The problem with the router is you need a large radius bit (more dangerous) or some kind of swing jig for the radius.

A very simple way to do it with a table saw is to cut a shallow V channel through a length of wood and glue a strip of leather or hard felt pad across the channel, which will smooth it into a curve.

Angle blade and the set fence on side of blade so it's angled toward the fence (depending on R/L tilt). Run it through one way, flip it around and do it again.

If you want an angle > 90, you'll probably have to run the block through vertically instead of horizontally.

You could also use a cove-cutting technique by running the board across the table saw blade at angle (instead of parallel or perpendicular). The idea is that the blade doesn't cut all the way through but instead leaves a smooth, round-bottom channel. Like this:



I'll try to demonstrate both methods tonight.

Glenn

Yes I have seen that method on the net... That is why I said I don't have a table saw... I wish I did

However, I do have a mill and can throw a 1/2" shank router bit into the tool holder. I don't think that would be a problem at all. I just didn't know if there were other ways of doing it because if I do it on my mill I will need to clean it up to make sure I don't get any oil on the wood etc... etc...

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Dean

Sorry, must have missed your remark about the lack of table saw. I could drop one of these cauls in the mail for you (US only). I've been meaning to make one for myself anyway.

Glenn

That would be fantastic ! Do you have PayPal ? I can shoot you the postage and whatever costs you want.
I have a 24" x 60" x 1/16" roll of cork that I bought for $2.00 at the local thrift shop.

Thank you.

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Dean

I won't get a chance to make it until the weekend. How long do you want it? Also, I'm planning to use pine or fir. Do you think it will be hard enough? Otherwise I'll use hardwood.

12" would be great. It is just a neck rest so just about any wood should work. Unless you know something I don't.

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Dean

Will this work for you?




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Here is my soon-to-be radius sanding block routing jig.


I want to make my own long sanding blocks.


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Sure that will be fine!

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Dean

Where to? Send PM if you don't want your address public.

I've got the radius block routing jig working pretty well, but it's not designed for very small radii like this.

I bought a nice barely used 3/4 HP Grizzly Shaper on Craigslist day before yesterday for $275. So I ordered this bit on Amazon to make guitar neck rest cauls....

If I cut the board 2-3/4 wide that will leave a 1/4" ledge on either side of the cut.

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Dean

Cool! I didn't get a chance to mail that caul yet (sorry). Looks like you won't need it now. You're like me - spend $300 to make a $15 item.

I made mine by running it across the top of my belt sander. Clamped a backstop to the frame at the top.