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Colin

Picked up this lot today
Blades seem good .. will try them later

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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.

At a guess that's a Jointer, smoother and small smoother/block plane in wood. Bit of a nasty crack in the smallest one at the front- does it go all the way through?
Metal smoother I don't know, but I have a similar German no.2 plane (Stanley No.3 size)
Looks like they've been kept reasonably dry, good chance the Jointer (?) and the large smoother are usable, the others may be.
Score.
Any luck on the sharpening stone side?

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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.

Cheers... no there wasnt any there colin... will be going again next sunday... the mrs is happy to go next week as she got a picture for the dining room .. will keep hunting .. got that lot for £10

You have quite easily got £10 worth in blades alone. I'm not sure what the long one is but it looks more like a long Jack Plane, circa 17 or 18" ? .
The little bear Plane (with the crack) looks a useful size. It can be repaired but it just depends whether you think it worth putting in the effort.
The middle bear Plane is your typical coffin smoothing Plane.
These wooden Planes are much easier to fettle than their metal counterparts. First thing to do is to make sure the wedge comes free. Flatten the sole, you want to avoid a hollow just ahead of the blade. Better a mere touch convex rather than concave (along the length), unless you know how to set them up Japanese fashion.
Make sure that any chipbreakers fit well. The very small one may not have a chipbreaker. The blade in the long Plane needs to project beyond the top of the wedge, otherwise you'll have a lot of trouble adjusting it.

Sorry, I think of a Jack as about 14-16", looks about 18".
Looks like that may be a rebate plane with blade under the Jack too, handy.
Time for some float glass and abrasive then?
Dual purpose as well , can do the "scary sharp" thing.
I was thinking maybe the little bear crack could be rescued with superglue?
Anyway, perhaps for your evening's entertainment, here's a primer on restoring wooden planes, lots of info on the net.
EDIT https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I2lvF8-nc_Q (senior moment......)

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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.

That crack looks a little too wide for superglue. Epoxy may be a better bet.

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Cat-gut strings are made from kitten guts, stretched out to near breaking point and then hardened with grue saliva. As a result these give a feeling of Pain and anguish whenever played, and often end up playing themselves backwards as part of satanic rituals.

Typhoon Guitars
http://www.typhoon-guitars.com

Think you may have a problem getting epoxy down into the crack. Looks like it goes nearly the way to the sole. At least!

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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.

There are some very thin epoxy that flows very well, system three or even Aeropoxy (which has the consistency of water). In fact you might want to build barriers around the crack to prevent it from flowing out. I said epoxy simply because it offers good structural support. CA does poorly in shear stress.

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Cat-gut strings are made from kitten guts, stretched out to near breaking point and then hardened with grue saliva. As a result these give a feeling of Pain and anguish whenever played, and often end up playing themselves backwards as part of satanic rituals.

Typhoon Guitars
http://www.typhoon-guitars.com

Looks like we're both going to be renovating old wooden planes then.
Just bought a Maples similar to your large one. I want one for making a radius block, been looking for a reasonably priced one for a while.
Looks reasonable http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181712645744?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT (if it works)

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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.

Looks good colin.. will be intrested to know how you get on with it

George, have you found the Performax 10-20 to be large enough for practical use in lutherie?

I would love to find a drum sander, and the smaller footprint is appealing.

Yes, very much so. I use the drum sander quite frequently; not only for top and back plates, but for taking brace stock, bridges, neck blanks, headplate veneers, binding, etc., all down to whatever thickness I desire. It's a handy tool and works like a champ! However, it makes A LOT of very fine dust and I would caution anyone against using a drum sander without utilizing a dust collection system. Luckily, those come up on Craigslist all the time as well. Be patient and you can find both at very reasonable prices.

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George :-)

Thanks George. I'm covered on dust extraction - just missed a Performax 10-20 on Craigslist, but am keeping my eyes peeled.

FWIW, I would recommend the 16/32. I find that I can run joined plates through without having to do it in halves.

And for thinning hard/dense stock that extra width helps because you can run it through at an angle. Similar concept as diagonal cuts with a roughing plane.

Glenn


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