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I was not going to bind this tenor uke but now that I have the body assembled I think it would not look that good.
So I am thinking about dimensions, maybe .045 x .250, with either .045 x .045 white, black or yellow (box or satinwood) line on the side only, not on the top or back.
This is a unfigured koa tenor & I am thinking about some curly koa binding.
Opinions please

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Mike McNerney

Just helped a friend do a bwb on the sides, but not the top or back because the binding channel was cut too deep. I prefer to do top & back if its one or the other.

My bindings are .060, and I think they are less than .200 high. I use .030 bwb on the top, back, sides and end graft. I used to use .060 on the top and back, but its easier to stock one size, and I think the .030 is enough to add, but not ADD.

Of course, just helped the same friend bind with curly koa, no purfling.

I kinda wonder of 045 x .250 would look to big on that small of an instrument ?

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Right around 3/16" high is fairly nice for an F5, topbound X .060" ivoroid .020 black and .020 white. I used to apply them separately with the pufling first, either BW or BWB to make a black line at the purlfing/wood juncture for ease of scraping. When that was dry, I applied the .060" ivoroid.
Sidebound instruments look a bit better with around 1/8-7-64" and the .040" BW or even .030" ( .010/.010/.010)BWB. I used to make up some strips of various purflings and binding strips a couple of inches long to keep handy. The 1-5/16 to 1-38" bodies look nicely proportioned right around 3/16" total including the purfling, or without any purfling. Easy enough to make up a few strips and keep them handy.