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PostPosted: Fri Mar 22, 2013 8:39 am 
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Joined: Fri Mar 24, 2006 12:42 pm
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Location: Windsor Ontario Canada
First name: Fred
Last Name: Tellier
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Thanks for posting Todd. Looks great, always good to get another useful idea for the shop

Fred

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 22, 2013 8:43 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2009 7:52 am
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State: Deep in the heart of Bluegrass
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Fred Tellier wrote:
Thanks for posting Todd. Looks great, always good to get another useful idea for the shop

Fred



+1 Thanks Todd ... Exactly what we Need in this Sub Forum [:Y:]

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 25, 2013 11:32 pm 
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Location: Los Osos CA
Focus: Repair
Good stuff; thank you.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 13, 2014 6:31 pm 
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ARRRRGHHHHHH gaah gaah gaah gaah gaah

I miss the Todd content.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 13, 2014 7:32 pm 
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me too, I have a need for this one


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 13, 2014 10:01 pm 
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It must be a time paradox. A time traveler must have disrupted the marriage of Todd's parents and he was never born. But.... the comments still remind.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 14, 2014 12:25 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 08, 2007 3:47 pm
Posts: 1213
Location: Raleigh, NC
First name: Ringo
Imbler wrote:
me too, I have a need for this one


I don't know what happened to Todd or his posts, but here's a couple of easy ways to do it with power tools. First, calculate the slope (rise over run) you need, then:

1. On the bandsaw or tablesaw, just attach a spacer to the board with tape in the proper location to give you the right slope like so:

Attachment:
wedge_bandsaw.jpg


run it through then clean up the resulting wedge on a sander or similar, or

2. If you have a thickness sander, attach the thin board that is to be the wedge to the top of a much thicker block with a little dab of glue, double sided tape, or as shown with a piece of paper glued between which makes it easy to separate the two later. Have it ride on a spacer in the appropriate spot, then run it through. I recently made some tapered Oud fretboards for someone this way and they came out perfect right out of the sander.

Attachment:
wedge_sander.jpg


The key in both methods (and I'm sure there are lots of other ways to do the same) is to use a thick, flat piece of wood between spacer and wedge that is stiff enough to not deflect at all as the wedge is being milled.

edit to add: if you're using a bandsaw or table saw, be sure to use a zero clearance insert or something similar to keep the thin wedge from falling down through the throat plate!


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Last edited by James Ringelspaugh on Fri Mar 14, 2014 2:57 pm, edited 1 time in total.


These users thanked the author James Ringelspaugh for the post: jack (Fri Mar 14, 2014 7:59 pm)
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 14, 2014 2:10 pm 
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Joined: Tue Mar 18, 2008 8:43 am
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Location: Florida
First name: John
Last Name: Killin
Focus: Build
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Thanks James.


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