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I've been 1 and two halves acoustics, and now I'm itching to do an electric.

I've always loved the les paul body look, so I believe I'm going to go with that shape. Since I'm doing that shape, I think I want to keep all the electronics in the same place. I don't have a les paul at my desposal to copy and I also have a blank.. Um..

This guy:


So a few questions,

1.) Les Pauls normally have a a top laminated on them, correct?
2.) The channel between the switch and the knobs, is that routed before said top is put in?
3.) If the answers to one and two are correct, and I don't want to resaw a top off, route the channel, and then glue the top back on, is there a tool that I can use to drill the channel?
4.) This isn't going to be a straight copy, really I like the overall body shape, but with that in mind, are there any plans someone would recommend for their first les paul build?
5.) Any books/dvds you would recommend for someone's first electric build?

Les Pauls have a hard rock maple facing over mahogany. That piece of spalted maple is likely much softer. Although I don't hold that it will make a tremendous difference to the tone of the guitar, if reproducing the tone of the Les Paul is important to you...using genuine Gibson humbuckers WILL make a big difference.

My Les Paul classic has the Gibson 496R pickup on the neck and the Gibson 500T pickup on the bridge. I've tried a few sets of pickups in an attempt to replicate the sound of these pups but I can only get close to it. Seymour Duncan comes the closest. Achieving the Les Paul sound isn't my "holy grail" so I'm not going to put too much more effort into it...but if you want it...use the Gibson pickups to get it.

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I read Emerson on the can. A foolish consistency is the hobgoblin of little minds...true...but a consistent reading of Emerson has its uses nevertheless.

StuMusic

There's a book by Melvyn Hiscock that has some GREAT information about building set-neck carve-top guitars from scratch using mainly hand tools, in addition to other guitar styles!

It came in very handy when I was trying to learn how it was done.

http://www.amazon.com/Make-Your-Own-Ele ... yn+hiscock

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Old growth, shmold growth!

As far as the wire channels go, you can do all those after everything is routed. From the neck pickup cavity to the switch, I'd use a 3/16th inch long drill bit. From the bridge pickup cavity to the control cavity, I'd use a 5/16ths. You want to be able pass multiple wires. through that one. Or you canb drill multiple holes.
I would drill the channel from the neck pickup across to the bridge pickup BEFORE gluing the neck on, as you can start in the neck pocket and get the right angle. I'd use a 5/16th for that one as well.

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Old growth, shmold growth!

Go to the TDPRI(www.tdpri.com), scroll down to The Tele Home Depot, and search for Les Paul builds. There are tons of them, and you can find all the answers you need there. All you have to do is read.

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Mike

The only thing nescessary for evil to thrive is for good men to do nothing.

Start here
viewtopic.php?f=10130&t=31069

Then call StewMac for the print, it's not on their site, you have to call them.

Between those 2, I got 90% of the info I needed to build mine.

Kevin Looker

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I'm not a luthier.
I'm just a guy who builds guitars in his basement.
It's better than playing golf.

EvilFrog, check your PM box.

Kevin

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I'm not a luthier.
I'm just a guy who builds guitars in his basement.
It's better than playing golf.

If my memory serves me correctly, the Stew Mac plans aren't very accurate. Use the Catto plans and the top carve templates referenced in Robs thread. In fact, I think Rob's thread has just about all the info you need.

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Regards,
Phillip Patton

http://www.pattonblades.com

The bitterness of poor quality lingers long after the sweetness of low price has faded.

https://hoosierbladesmith.wordpress.com

If you have not already, check out Kevin Looker's LP thread.
His finished instrument is beautiful and quite inspiring!

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wah
Wah-wah-wah-wah
Wah

I find it easier to drill from the bridge pickup cavity to the control cavity.
less chance for wander.

Same with the bridge ground. In that case I use the stop tailpiece holes, closer to the cavity. There's less than an inch of wood to drill through so it shouldn't be a problem. If you use the ABR1 stkye bridge that has the post screwed directly into the wood you have to use the stop tailpiece stud holes anyway.

Trying to aim through the jack hole and get the drill to start on that irregular surface correctly can be a pain, but if I WERE to go that route I'd use an awl to mark the spot.

I just picked up one of THESE puppies! http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/208261 ... x-Awl.aspx

It rocks. Super sharp accurate point, hard as all get out. It'll accurately mark start holes in purpleheart and bubinga with ease without blunting.

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Old growth, shmold growth!

You're right, of course, dependent on the design. If the cavity is sufficiently far from or back from either the bridge or stop bar studs, or if you are using a wraparound bridge/tailpiece combo, you really might have no choice but to go from the jack.

With the Les Paul though, if you use the TAILPIECE stud hole, it's a straight shot right into the control cavity through an inch or less of wood. I've installed MANY ground wires in Lesters from the 70's that were strangely completely missing the ground wires. Pull the stop bar stud, drill the hole, bam. I've even used short drill bits with a regular hand drill no problem. It SHOULD be a non-issue on that point. It's a straight shot. From the BRIDGE stud, it may be a different story, considering the lack of control over the angle.

Going from the bridge pickup cavity to the control cavity should also present no real problem either, as you can have greater control over the pont of entry and the drill angle. The control cavity itelf is so large you have a pretty good range to target, less room for error. You just have to be sure to start low enough in the pickup cavity that the wire doesn't inhibit the pickup any.

My reasoning for avoiding drilling from the jack is as follows.

The target area for the drill channel is a lot smaller going from that direction. You are also more blind when determining the drill start point.

If you look from the top, using a long drill bit, you can sight along the bit only until it enters the jack hole, and you have to extrapolate the contnuation of the drill bit to the point where it contacts the cavity side wall, to find the point you need to mark with your awl. Hopefully your bit is straight, and your eye is flawless, as you have a very small target area. Also, you have to estimate the right angle because the stud hole is only so deep, and you have to hit it and not go under it or you will miss it.

If you go from underneath, you can see exactly where the drill bit is going to contact, but you have to estimate almost completely blind where the stud id going to be. Again, it's a VERY small target compared to going from the other direction.

Either way is a little too risky for me, especially when it's such a short distance, and so much easier to just go from the top.

Sure the angle for the ground wire is a little steep, but the distance is very short.

So !!!!

(just kidding!)

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Old growth, shmold growth!

Thanks everyone for all the replies.

I would just route shallow channels for wiring in the body before gluing on the top.
If you are using a long neck tenon, it seems you would have to route a channel for it before installing the top anyway.
I apologize if I'm not understanding this thread.

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wah
Wah-wah-wah-wah
Wah

You've received a lot of very good advice - I'll add one more tidbit. Get Melvyn Hiscock's book before you do anything else. And if you want to wade thru a long build thread, here is one on my Lester

http://www.harmonycentral.com/t5/Electr ... p/31808721

Really I'm just looking for advice overall.

But also, I want the les paul shape, but I'm not looking to make a clone. I would like to avoid resawing my blank to route everything and then glue it back on... but that sounds like me being lazy. So I guess I'll cut it off.

Ah, the body pieces are already glued together. Sorry I did not catch that.

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wah
Wah-wah-wah-wah
Wah

I think you're fine drilling the channels after the routing but before you glue the neck in.

Just use an awl, whichever route you go.

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Old growth, shmold growth!