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PostPosted: Mon Jun 10, 2013 9:01 am 
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Cocobolo
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Joined: Thu May 12, 2011 3:27 pm
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First name: Alex
Last Name: Takacs
State: Illinois
Country: United States
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Just curious what others on the forum are doing! I've only used cedar in the past.-Alex


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 10, 2013 9:13 am 
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Cocobolo
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Joined: Sun Jun 21, 2009 1:08 pm
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First name: jim
Last Name: mccarthy
City: ojai
State: ca
Zip/Postal Code: 93023
Country: usa
Focus: Build
I've tried WR Cedar but don't like it because it splits so easily coming around curves.
Spruce is my favorite.
I've tried Alaskan Yellow Cedar and it makes the bends well by I don't care for its'
odor.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 10, 2013 9:27 am 
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Joined: Tue Jan 03, 2006 1:47 pm
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Location: United States
First name: Larry
Last Name: Hawes
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
I use solid linings that match the back and top. Usually a two tiered approach, one deeper about 5/16", one shallow about 3/16". They end up 3/16" - 1/4" wide when complete. I use off cuts from the top and/or sides then bent in the side bender.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 10, 2013 9:55 am 
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Joined: Sat Jan 31, 2009 8:50 pm
Posts: 2260
Location: Seattle WA
Focus: Build
Status: Semi-pro
Triangle
Spanish cedar
Spruce

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 10, 2013 10:26 am 
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Joined: Mon Jan 08, 2007 3:47 pm
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Location: Raleigh, NC
First name: Ringo
Solid linings... I bend them along with the bindings so they're no more trouble than kerfed linings. I use Spanish cedar because it smells nice.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 10, 2013 10:43 am 
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First name: Larry
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James Ringelspaugh wrote:
Solid linings... I bend them along with the bindings so they're no more trouble than kerfed linings. I use Spanish cedar because it smells nice.


James do you use more than one per side and 'stack' them? What I love about the solid linings is that the rim is very stiff outside the mold and will hold its shape very well.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 10, 2013 11:26 am 
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Joined: Fri Jun 22, 2012 11:12 am
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First name: Rodger
Last Name: Knox
City: Baltimore
State: MD
Zip/Postal Code: 21234
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Solid laminated, usually 3 at 5/16"x1/16" and 2 at 3/16"x1/16", bent on the bender right after the sides along with the binding.
I've used oak and poplar, and I'll probably try basswood. I like oak because it bends easily and is readily available, and I think the extra mass on the edges of the plates might be a good thing. I'm not at all sure about that, trying the basswood should give me some insight.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 10, 2013 11:34 am 
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Rodger Knox wrote:
Solid laminated, usually 3 at 5/16"x1/16" and 2 at 3/16"x1/16", bent on the bender right after the sides along with the binding.
I've used oak and poplar, and I'll probably try basswood. I like oak because it bends easily and is readily available, and I think the extra mass on the edges of the plates might be a good thing. I'm not at all sure about that, trying the basswood should give me some insight.


5 ply linings? Pretty ambitious but imagine a very nice look and stability. I've used mostly Mahogany with Mahogany back/sides and Walnut with Walnut back/sides.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 10, 2013 12:00 pm 
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First name: Rodger
Last Name: Knox
City: Baltimore
State: MD
Zip/Postal Code: 21234
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Yes, 5 ply, sometimes 6 if the purfling is very wide. I've had better results using more plys of less thickness, it's easier to get them to conform to shape without gaps between the plys. They may be closer to 0.05" than 1/16", I don't usually measure that closely, especially on non-critical dimensions.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 10, 2013 12:02 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 08, 2007 3:47 pm
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Location: Raleigh, NC
First name: Ringo
LarryH wrote:
James Ringelspaugh wrote:
Solid linings... I bend them along with the bindings so they're no more trouble than kerfed linings. I use Spanish cedar because it smells nice.


James do you use more than one per side and 'stack' them? What I love about the solid linings is that the rim is very stiff outside the mold and will hold its shape very well.


Yes, two strips stacked. The linings end up being about 3/16" wide and make a very stiff rim. I build on a solera without a mold... stiff, stable sides are a big part of making that work for me.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 10, 2013 12:54 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Sat Jan 15, 2005 12:50 pm
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Location: United States
I like willow, either for solid bent liners or reverse kerfed. you can bend air dried willow up to about 5mm thick. Its hard to find on the market, but easy to come by: just call your local tree guy. The big problem then is they'll want to drop it off by the truckload. I also use 'Spanish cedar' and mahogany.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 10, 2013 11:21 pm 
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Joined: Wed Oct 22, 2008 9:31 pm
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First name: Darryl
Last Name: Young
State: AR
Country: USA
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I've used Ash and it worked well for a 3 ply "solid" binding. Cut strips off a flatsawn board and you have perfectly quartersawn strips for the bender.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 11, 2013 6:19 am 
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First name: Tony
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Basswood reverse kerfed linings. Bends easily and looks nice on dark woods.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 11, 2013 5:13 pm 
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Joined: Wed Nov 14, 2012 6:47 pm
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First name: john
Last Name: smith
City: hemet
State: ca
Zip/Postal Code: 92543
Country: usa
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Like most everything else its a matter of opinion but I like the idea of basswood because it is so acoustically dead. It seems to me that it would keep some vibration on the top rather than taking it to and through the sides.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 12, 2013 3:25 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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First name: ernest
Last Name: kleinman
City: lee's summit
State: mo
Zip/Postal Code: 64081
Country: usa
Focus: Build
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WRC, Eastern RC, willow , bass, white oak , spruce mahog, being a contrarian I don/tlike the smell of Sp cedar in my ramirez. walnut, local pearwood, kerfed, laminated 5ply makes vy stiff especially if sides, are laminated and tentellones for uke and CL tops the tentellones are in line with the sides on edge IMHO makes a stronger joint long grain glued to long grain with WRC, easy to sand or plane. I prefer laminated lnings for the back , and narrow spaced kerfs for tight uke backs easier to bend, prefer basswood or willow.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 12, 2013 4:32 pm 
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First name: Larry
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itswednesday14 wrote:
Like most everything else its a matter of opinion but I like the idea of basswood because it is so acoustically dead. It seems to me that it would keep some vibration on the top rather than taking it to and through the sides.


Another opinion - I'm not sure I want anything acoustically 'dead' on my guitars.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 13, 2013 8:44 am 
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Koa
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Joined: Tue Dec 15, 2009 1:46 pm
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First name: Robert
Last Name: Renick
City: Mount Shasta
State: ca
Zip/Postal Code: 96067
Country: us
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Two linings from the Charles Fox class. Tried them out on ukes. The kerfed version has a rabbet in the kerfs and is capped, described in detail on the frets.com site. The second is newer, no kerfing, closed cell aircraft foam in between 2 thinned sides. Incredibly stiff and acoustically dead, this instrument is not strung up yet.


You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 13, 2013 7:48 pm 
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First name: Joe
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City: Lake Forest
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I like the Fox style double lining for the top (basswood) but use reverse kerf mahog for the back.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 14, 2013 9:32 am 
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First name: Tom
Last Name: West
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Robert: Thanks for posting pics. I get the first one but not the second. Wonder if you could fill us in. Alex: I use reverse kerf lining generally Mahogany because I find I can do a much better job of inletting braces without blowouts and that results in a neater finished look.
Tom

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 14, 2013 9:47 am 
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First name: Robert
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Tom West wrote:
Robert: Thanks for posting pics. I get the first one but not the second. Wonder if you could fill us in. Alex: I use reverse kerf lining generally Mahogany because I find I can do a much better job of inletting braces without blowouts and that results in a neater finished look.
Tom

Links to the frets.com site. First link, a better pic, second link has the tour with a few pics of these linings and the process, third is the other tour of the C Fox shop, lots of cool stuff there.
Rob

http://www.frets.com/FretsPages/Feature ... fox010.jpg
http://www.frets.com/FretsPages/Feature ... fox01.html
http://www.frets.com/FretsPages/FieldTr ... cfox1.html

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 14, 2013 3:12 pm 
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First name: Tom
Last Name: West
State: Nova Scotia
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Robert: Thanks for additional pictures. I get it now, looked different then Charles' linings. I am a bit slow on the up take.
Tom

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 14, 2013 4:14 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Tue May 13, 2008 10:44 am
Posts: 6262
Location: Virginia
For a while I liked using the same material I would use for the back and sides. I was building with Imbuia and Walnut a lot. I started using spruce and that gives a real nice contrast and it's very light too. I like mahogany too. No favourite for me really and I tend to use solid more now.


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