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Hi! My name is Steve and I play bass. (Don't shoot!)

Here is my situation. I play primarily Fender Basses (2 Roscoe Beck Signatures, P-Plus, etc)

They are all 4-string, 34" scale. I tune them either B-E-A-D, or 1/2 step down Bb-Eb-Ab-Db using 5-string sets. I have had the nut cut to accomodate the larger strings correctly.

I can't get the intonation set right. I've taken it to a couple set-up guys and they get it close, but they say it's the best they can do, but it's not 100%. I realize a 35" scale would be better, but that is not in the budget. Many companies offer a 34" scale 5-string that seems to do just fine. I'm wondering if changing the string gauge a wee bit might make things more precise. I'm currently using .130 for the B string.

I've noticed that Carvin uses a .128 for the B string. I'm wondering if a thicker string with more tension or a thinner string with less tension would be better for a 34" scale.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated! I don't mind spending a few bucks to make it right, I'm just looking for some experienced opinions to get an idea where to try first.

El-Steve-o

My Cort Curbow 5 string is 34", never had any problems. Could you describe any further the intonation issues? Is what happens that you can't adjust the saddles backward or forward enough to make it right? If so, you can remove the bridge, fill and re drill the screw holes to accomodate. Theoretically the fret placement should be the same on your 34" scale bass as my 34" scale bass. If it's not, that would be strange.

Describe the issue further if you could.

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Just wondering if the heavier gauge strings or an increased bridge height could be affecting compensation?
Are all strings out of wack?

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I have had 2 basses set up by guys who do set ups.

The bridge should only have to be raised 0.0125"
(0.130" (B-string) - 0.105" (E-string) /2 )

I tune the B-string correctly, and the 5th fret starts going sharp.

The saddle is at maximum adjustment as far away from the nut as possible. Even the spring has been removed to gain a couple extra threads.

One bridge had been moved back and redrilled. It is better, but still not right.

This is why I was looking for theoretical opinions on string gauge as I think it might make a difference, I just don't know which direction to go.

Here's a hypothetical question:
Say you have a perfectly intonated bass with .130" strings.
If you put on .125" strings, which way do you typically move the saddle for correct intonation?
Same question if you put on .135" strings.

I think this would help answer my question.

Thanks!

What happens when you play the string open,
then the 12th fret?
Is it sharp on the 12th?
Or is it just on the 5th?

Sounds like you need to move the bridge back to give you more room to move the saddles back. Bigger strings usually need more compensation. You can try to lower the action as well; that will help to a small degree.