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is there a way to repair this without removing the board and get a nice tight joint again. I bought it this way so I'm not sure what happened other than someone tried and failed with super glue. It clamps back down easily but there's a little gap that needs better cleaning out. The pictures were before I started to clean out the super glue so the joint look jagged but the joints are actually sharp edged. When I relieve the truss rod the two pieces mate up pretty tight. The picture was with the rod tight. The neck seems to be straight. I also removed the nut for better access to the gap.

No farther than the crack is open, I would simply get as much glue out as possible, reglue with fresh Titebond, and clamp securely. Clean it up after the glue is dry, and play until your fingers bleed.

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"Act your age, not your shoe size" - Prince

what brand of neck is that anyway...? i wouldn't expect to see that happen on a Charvel/Jackson, or Ibanez....unless it was immersed in a bucket of water or something

it's a Charvel/Jackson that lived in Florida humidity. I was wondering about using 2 part epoxy in case the tightbond doesn't penetrate where the super glue was.

Ye gods - please don't use epoxy.
If the glue does fail, or if future repairs might be needed epoxy is such a b@tch to get off.

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"Act your age, not your shoe size" - Prince

that's what I thought too. someone else told me recently that epoxy can be heated to remove it in the same fashion using an iron to remove the rest of the board if necessary.

Epoxy will release with heat, but cleaning the surfaces to re-glue will be difficult. Titebond may not grab well to the CA used before, of course it may work fine. The biggest thing is there are already two different glue joints here that have failed and even if the new titebond holds to the CA either of the previous failed joints could continue to fail. But nothing ventured, nothing gained, so I would give it a shot with some titebond and see if it holds. If it doesn't then you will most likely want to pull the board.

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Brian

You never know what you are capable of until you actually try.

https://www.howardguitarsdelaware.com/

Isn't this one of those repairs where hot hide glue would have some distinct advantages?

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A man hears what he wants to hear, and disreguards the rest. Paul Simon

seeing as it is a charvel jackson and not some $90 "first act" walmart toy, i vote for pulling off the fretboard on this one, sanding both surfaces with a nice long level, and regluing. git er done right

+1 on pulling the board & fixing it right. Might be a good idea to pull the 1st and 15th fret before removing the board and drilling holes for registration pins. That will make it easier to get it back on in exactly the right spot.

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A man hears what he wants to hear, and disreguards the rest. Paul Simon

I saw a video using an iron to remove the board and drilling the holes too. good idea. As far as the repair failing as well as the original glue, The guitar may've been exposed to some real bad humidity or goodness knows what else to do that kind if damage. Not sure if over tightening the rod could've done that. And with the failed repair, I don't think the repairee knew what they were doing. The Glue was 1/6" in part of the gap meaning the just filled the gap and didn't even clamp it. Thank goodness they didnt clamp it because they would've ruined the finish for sure. There's not one mark of indication that it was clamped. I'm surprised they didn't just use a drywall screw to fix it. Would've actually worked better than what they did. I myself, pride myself in being very meticulous when dealing with repairs of anything so I think I will go the glue/repair route first and then fill the drywall screw hole for clamping after(just kidding). The reason I don't care to remove the board is that I don't have the proper tools to do it right as far a planers or sanding boards go. Rather than going with the rubber band clamping system, I think I'll fabricate some pieces of wood to fit the radius of both sides for a nice tight clamp.

when heating the fretboard, i would be concerned about melting those expansive "shark tooth" inlays....dunno what they are made of, but i sure wager they ain't mother of pearl.

Umm, I glue all my 'fresh' boards with epoxy, and it's pretty easy to remove with just an iron and a palette knife. The whole 'epoxy cannot be released' thing is mythological. Polyurethane, I'm with you, epoxy, not so much.

Epoxy does release with heat, about as easily as Tightbond. It is quite a bit harder to get off the remaining epoxy.

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A man hears what he wants to hear, and disreguards the rest. Paul Simon

I would try the clean out and Titebond first,
and see what happens.
Then if that fails,
remove the fretboard and re glue after sanding.
Interesting thing is,
if you look closely at the pics,
you can see a scarf joint in the maple neck.
Maybe thats moving around.
The grain in the maple is fighting each other,
and probably twisting.