Official Luthiers Forum!

Hi all,

Great site here. I am learning lots.

I am building my first electric guitar. I have probably not chosen the best type of guitar to build for a first-timer, but it is what it is, and I am usually very good at doing things for the first time. Having said that, I am sure I will make tons of mistakes.
I have chosen to build an Explorer style guitar, with a neck-through design.
Its probably a horrible idea for a first guitar, but I am also in the process of building a small scale guitar for my young son, and I am also building a new (better) body for my Epiphone Special 2.

I have the neck-through glued up with a bubinga strip in the middle, flanked by two 1/4 inch pieces of poplar (I think they're poplar), and two pieces of birdseye maple. I will make the body 'wings' out of mahogany. I have the wood, but cannot remember if its african, or brazilian, or some other type of mahogany. (I bought it awhile ago).

My question is about my bandsaw, its blade, and how to cut the scarf joint?
I dont want to screw up the neck blank, so here I am.

I have found that it is very difficult to cut a straight line with my bandsaw.
I have a Grizzly 14 inch saw, and it currently has a (approx) 3/8 inch blade on it, with about 6 TPI.
When I try to cut a piece of scrap, I have to enter the cut perpendicular to start, then adjust.
When I am done I have found that there can be as much of a 1/4 inch or more difference from the top of the cut to the bottom.

I also have a brand new 1/8 inch blade with 15 TPI.

Is one blade more recommended than the other for what i'm trying to do? And if anyone has any advice, I am all ears.

I've attached some pics of the neck blank.

Thanks-

Is that bandsaw equipped with the original Timberwolf blade? If so you are going to want to change that asap. The blade that came on my 19" Grizz was a major POS. It would cut pretty straight but the quality of the cut was terrible. After changing the blade and setting up the saw the difference was night and day. The greatest saw on earth is worthless with a crap blade. There are a few threads here on setting up the saw as well. That is aslo a must if you want a straight cut.

Check out spectrum supply for good prices on bandsaw blades.

I am fairly sure its not an original blade.

Would I be better off using the other blade i have?
1/8" and 15 TPI?

Thanks-

You would be much better off doing this with a handsaw and a block plane to straighten up afterwards.

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I am not acquainted with the band saw in question, but the saws work with have a set of guides below the table as well as above the table on the guard. The fact that you are getting a cut that is different on the top that the bottom suggests that the guides are not adjusted properly. I usually start by backing the guides out both top, bottom,(both, side guides, as well as the, rear guide) then turn on the machine, and let it run for a minute. I then screw them in until they barely touch the blade (watch carefully and don't move the blade as you get close).
In some cases a blade is just bad so trying the other might be helpful. keep in mind though that you will want to reset the guides for the new blade -especially the rear guides. -don't think you can get out of it.

p.s. either of those blades should work fine as long as you get a good set up on the saw.

Bad drift is also caused by a dull blade

_________________
Cat-gut strings are made from kitten guts, stretched out to near breaking point and then hardened with grue saliva. As a result these give a feeling of Pain and anguish whenever played, and often end up playing themselves backwards as part of satanic rituals.

Typhoon Guitars
http://www.typhoon-guitars.com

Correct set up of a bandsaw often takes hours of work and, obviously some correct knowledge of the machine. Once done, the major set up stuff does not need to be redone very often, only the guides/easy stuff. Get a good book and follow the instructions or search this site and the web to learn how to set up your machine. It is worth the time. A good quality bandsaw with a good quality blade can cut VERY accurately and smoothly. You are obviously experiencing the opposite. You should get a good sense of accomplishment by turning your machine from a problem to a fine tool. You will not regret it. Good luck.

wow.. just wow
this thread made me want to register...

1st: Grizzly bandsaw don't come with timberwolf blades stock. the stock blade is a no name blade really cheap that will cut really badly. timberwolf blades ares actually more expensive than normal blades because of the special treatment they receive. they are actually really good for the price.

2nd: use the largest blade your bandsaw can handle. I have the G0513X2 17 inch from grizzly. I personally use 1inch but i think yours can go up to 3/4... use the smaller blades for curves. the smaller it is the sharper turn it can do.

3rd: like previously mentioned. proper tensioning of the blades and guide adjustment is crucial. there are many videos on youtube that explain that. you must adjust every time you change blade. the instruction book that came with my grizzly bandsaw was easy to follow. if u still have yours its a good start..

4th: get some scrap wood. use a miter saw to cut it to the exact angle you want to do your scarf joint. clamp your neck to it. run it with a fence through your band saw at the desired position. something similar to this:

If you have access to a table saw. it would probably make more reliable result.

5th: Practice on scrap wood...

hope thats helpful and easy to understand...
heres a link that I found on the subject. I haven't red it but it seems to use the same technique I am...
http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f57/scarf-joint-jigs-501205/

Luigi

Yeah, I have to chime in, too..
I bought a bandsaw a few weeks ago, had never used one before (older Jet 14" - 105). Got a TimberWolf 3/4" 3tpi for it, spent a few days getting it calibrated, practiced an oak piece, this was my second ever resaw, using the TimberWolf:



I've had worse results w/ 60grit sandpaper. I'm a big fan of that blade