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This is my first build using z-poxy.
It is also my last.

I applied it on Zebra, Maple and Sapele. Mixed as directed. Applied
as I've seen on videos here and other sites.

Now I have a guitar that is, for the lack of a better word, stained.

It was prep sanded to 320 and cleaned before starting. Blown with air very
good to assure sanding dust was gone and pores were clean.

The only way I see of saving what was a beautiful guitar is sanding it all off...but
that junk did more than fill the pores- it soaked into the wood so sanding isn't an option.

I've only used micro-bead filler in the past (4 builds) and if you have used it
you may understand why I'm so upset.

I feel that extreme sanding/scrape to remove the z-poxy is not an option so I'm hoping
someone may have suggestions.

I'll also recommend to anybody that hasn't used this crap, don't unless you're building a boat.
And only one boat because this junk is not healthy for your body or nerves.

Vented and don't feel a bit better. Nothing about z-poxy belongs in my life.

What do you mean by stained? I have used it on four guitars without issue: BRW with maple bindings, EIR with while fiber purflings. Koa with ebony bindings and spanish cedar with ebony bindings.

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http://www.Harvestmoonguitars.com

I've never used epoxy as a filler.
I just used some penetrating epoxy on some rotten wood on a house,
and realized how nasty it is.
It actually makes my hairs stick up on arms just thinking about it.
A mask is definitely in order!

Every claim made on the box is a lie.
Odorless- BS smell like dead fish.
Clear formula- BS. Mixed as directed it was a yellow brown tint and I was a fool seeing that and still using it. Won't be fooled again.
Non-brittle- Well thats true. It's a gum. A plastic gum that has no place on a guitar....at least I'll never put on one again.
Great for applying fiberglass cloth- I don't know or care...my guitars don't use fiberglass cloth.
Laminates wood and foam- my guitars don't have foam either and probably good stuff to build boats with....if you don't mind possible health issues.
Working time 20 to 30 minutes- Not true if you include the time it takes to remove it.
Cures in 3 hours- to sand requires 6 hours...I think any time with it a waste.

Well I've started sanding with 80 grit trying to save the guitar. Glad I carved a thick neck so hope is good that'll work out.

I didn't post to debate the value of this crap. If you've had success with it, good for you. I get it off this guitar and
that'll be the end of z-poxy.
I posted asking if anyone knew of an easy way to remove it. Success with it, application techniques or tricks just don't matter to me as I'm done with the junk.
The only good thing about using it is I've learned not to use it.

Pics?

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formerly known around here as burbank
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http://www.patfosterguitars.com

I've never used it, so i don't have clue as to it's working properties/suitability for any application.
I'm sorry that you've had such a bad experience with it, but I think to get it off will be difficult, if not impossible. It's an epoxy, so i really don't know of anything that will remove it, especially from pores. I think sanding is the only option.
As for it staining the wood, I've read where people who use it post that it imparts a slight amber tint to the wood. If this is what you mean by staining(only thing I can think of, and yeah, if i wanted the woods to remain their natural color, ie; no amber or darkening, zpoxy would not be what i would choose), then I'm afraid you'd have sand until you breached the pores far enough to expose new, unfilled pores. That's a lot of sanding.
Good luck, and i hope it works out for you.

_________________
Mike

The only thing nescessary for evil to thrive is for good men to do nothing.

Most of it has been removed. Took 80 grit to phase it.
If you can imagine that very dark brown all over the sapele to the level that inside the horns
you couldn't even see the wood grain.
The neck-thru wood - mahogany turned pink and maple has that yellow brown which is very much
like the junk looked like after mixing it. I'm a fool for not stoping the moment I saw it mixed.

Mike your description of amber tint is probably more accurate. I didn't use tint because it wasn't
uniform. There were areas that looked, the best I can describe, as if there was glue left on the wood preventing
it from effecting it. I know there was no glue anywhere on it..I had this guitar worked down to 320 grit.

Well I decided to sand it until it was gone since I didn't think there was another way.

I don't know much about posting photos here....I've included three but they don't show in preview.
I'll post the others if they're not in this post.

Looks like ya still got some sanding to do.