Official Luthiers Forum!

I'm really not sure how that would work. Maybe somehow utilize magnets? That switch will have to have enough clearance on top to use all five positions. Maybe a PRS style switch would be a better solution? Ya got me there.

if its arch topped or if it has a... dang on the tip of my tounge (when you have wood over the bodywood?? ahh.. im embarrassed) just drill the whole a tad deeper than normally and get put filler over it or something like that

Do you have a photo of the switch, or a link where it can be seen? Knowing how it's built might help.

Mike

The main problem is that to use those switches, you can't have much material (wood) between the switch and the top because then the knob will keep the switch from going full throw. This limits the mounting options quite a bit. However, you might be able to mount it if you only rout the area that the switch will sit in to the final switch depth. You can then use epoxy or something like that to glue L shaped pieces of wood (ears) on the back side of the switch, drop in the switch with the "ears" on it and screw the ears into the thicker part of the wood that was not routed. I hope that makes sense, if it does not I can try to draw it for you.

John

_________________
John Thiessen
http://www.iszacguitars.com

Veneer.

Depending on the thickness of the top, you could embed a machine screw with a flattened head in the wood after drilling a small, flat hole with a forstner bit, then mount it from the underside. Or make tab extensions that screw into small blocks glued to the underside of the body top.

_________________
Captainate

Wow, this is the thrid time I have typed this, and my computer keeps losing it....I am not kidding either!

Filippo take a look at this and see if it might work for you.



Blue is the top, red are tabs that are glued to the top's back side, and the green of course represent the screws. This will require either a new long stem switch, or the extension of a current short version. I found a long stem version last night, but can remember where......sleeepy.

It's another idea anyway. Hope it helps.

Mike

If there are long stem switches available, then all you need is to drill out the threads in the switch and use shorter screws than the top of the guitar and just screw it into the wood from the back.

I would also like to know where the long switches are cause on my carved top models I have gone to rotary switches or 3-way with push pull pots to get the same results.

_________________
John Thiessen
http://www.iszacguitars.com

I did a quick drawing to illustrate a concept.

_________________
How long is that in luthyears?

i cant tell in bretts idea are the yellow brackets and the switch still screwing through the top somhow? i think if i were trying to acheive the the desired result i would do something similar to the bretts drawing, but i would perminately fix the brackets with a little jbweld or something and then you can fasten 'er down quite easily.

_________________
~shad peters

http://www.flickr.com/photos/petersinstruments/
http://petersinstruments.blogspot.com/
http://petersinstruments.com/

The brackets are screwed to the switch for future maintanance. Only a small dimple is required to clearance the top of a pan head screw. This way when the switch fails you need only unscrew it and re-use the brackets.
Brett

_________________
How long is that in luthyears?

Very clever, Brett.