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PostPosted: Sun May 16, 2010 6:14 pm 
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Walnut
Walnut
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Joined: Sat May 15, 2010 10:44 pm
Posts: 2
First name: Kevin
Last Name: Collins
City: Seatown
State: Wa
Country: usa
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
I am new to the forum and just want to say hello. I'll post here because I love electric guitars. I have played for many years and now want to restore an old Supro and a Kay Bass. I also have a question straight off the bat. How did manufacturers apply celluloid and pearloid finishes to those 50s & 60s guitars? I know all the mother of toilet seat jokes and roll eyes but favor of some information. I know that acrylic and polymer sheets have come a long way since the original finishes were applied to those old "cheap" guitars so I was thinking about those "drum wrap" sheets that are thin. If anyone has worked with this type of sheeting, are they flexible enough to go over a contoured surface Heat & stretch wise?


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PostPosted: Mon May 17, 2010 6:28 am 
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Koa
Koa

Joined: Sat Jun 17, 2006 8:29 am
Posts: 960
Location: Northern Ireland
First name: Martin
Last Name: Edwards
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
sorry, not a clue, but welcome anyway!!

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PostPosted: Mon May 17, 2010 12:48 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Fri Aug 19, 2005 4:02 am
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Location: The Woodlands, Texas
First name: Barry
Last Name: Daniels
If it is real celluloid they probably applied them like Martin used to apply celluloid pickguards. They use acetone to melt the surface of the plastic and place it on the wood surface. The acetone softens the plastic and adheres it to the wood.


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PostPosted: Mon May 17, 2010 10:04 pm 
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Walnut
Walnut
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Joined: Sat May 15, 2010 10:44 pm
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First name: Kevin
Last Name: Collins
City: Seatown
State: Wa
Country: usa
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Hey thanks for the welcome and great information. I found celluloid sheets 23.5" X 52.5" X (.018"), (.028"), (.038") or (.048"). This would be for covering the damaged surface of the Supro Res-O-Glas (fiberglass) guitar. I think that acetone would be out of the question as it may eat into the fiberglass. My next thought is to purchase the thinner 0.18 and gently clamp it to the disassembled body half and work it into shape with a heat gun. Another thought is to use the pearloid "drum wrap" material and coax it around the contours of the body. My main concern with this is the wraps durability.


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PostPosted: Tue May 18, 2010 9:22 pm 
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Koa
Koa

Joined: Fri Jun 30, 2006 4:23 pm
Posts: 1694
Location: United States
First name: Lillian
Last Name: Fuller-Watson
State: WA
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Try Duco Cement. I used it to put plastic nocks on wooden arrows. It does melt the plastic a bit. Not sure if it will soft it enough to make it malleable. Worth experimenting with.

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