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Overall a fascinating approach although I won't pretend I understand how the top and lattice bracing all work together. It will be some time before I have the skills to stray too far from the traditional construction methods as I still have so much to learn.

I do think one needs to look at the neck joint separate from the rest of the guitar. I think the higher pivot point might result in less change to string length during adjustment although I wonder if there would be any practical advantage.

The neck joint itself is simpler than the Doolin at least from the standpoint of number of components if not necessarily from the standpoint of implementation. I can see where using the rigid frame under the soundboard allows the neck/centerline adjustment to occur when the neck block and frame are constructed so lateral adjustment wouldn't be needed. In order to use a stand alone neck block with the mortise for the neck/ fretboard extension it would be critical to get the neck block/heel block alignment exactly right.

I love seeing how other people build things.

_________________
Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"

On a Doolin you are just adding 2 set screws and brass dowel bearings and a flay washer to a bolt on neck that uses barrel nuts instead of bushings. Inlet the heel area and add some CF buttresses and CF under the tongue.

Well, if you eliminate the insanity of the plywood chassis (very nice work there Mr. Schramm), then all you have left is a neck block that extends to the end of the finger board that gets mortised for the neck extension and heel. That seems pretty simple to me since I already am building my necks in the style of Colin Symonds. I have no doubt that Mike Doolin is a better builder than I, but cannot understand why you would ever need yaw adjustment in a guitar neck.

The yawl adjustment is usually a one time deal and the setscrews also act as the pivot point like the metal plate in that neck joint. There is no need for sand swipes of the neck cheeks while setting the neck. If need be the whole neck can also be shifted forward some with a simple turn of the set screws if your saddle is just a bit too forward to intonate. Although that isn't what they were designed for but if the neck pocket is about 1/8" you have some room for adjustment. And if need be you can deepen the pocket also. There is more then first meets the eye there. I didn't realize that either until I built one.