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Mark Ewing
 Post subject: binding oops
PostPosted: Thu Jul 23, 2009 9:04 pm 
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Installed wood binding with yellow glue. The binding seems to have pulled back a bit. May it shrank or what. I don't know. I need to loosen it up some how and push it back in. What are my options? Can this be done with a heat gun? It is along the back about 2" coming out of the waist. Anybody got any advice?

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"Trees are an important and precious thing. We should build good things with them. Building good guitars with heart are the best use for them." K. Yairi.
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David Newton
 Post subject: Re: binding oops
PostPosted: Thu Jul 23, 2009 9:17 pm 
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You may have to heat it from the gap to the neck block to get enough slack to bring it in.
If not, you won't be the first to rout off the binding and do it again.

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Joe Beaver
 Post subject: Re: binding oops
PostPosted: Fri Jul 24, 2009 1:41 am 
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Heat gun or a clothes iron should work. Once it is hot enough (around 140 degrees?) Just push it in and clamp. When it cools it should be fine.

Good Luck,
Joe

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John Hale
 Post subject: Re: binding oops
PostPosted: Fri Jul 24, 2009 2:56 am 
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On my first attempt I was able to hide 2 patches like that by making a clamp out of studding and flooding the gap with ca and clamping tight.

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Bill Hodge
 Post subject: Re: binding oops
PostPosted: Fri Jul 24, 2009 8:47 pm 
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As Joe said a heat gun or a clothes iron will work but the iron will give you more control over the amount of the area being affected by the heat. If the heat's too close to the joint on the plates you can cause shrinking and separation of the joint if using a heat gun. Don't ask how I know this. [headinwall]

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mateo4x4
 Post subject: Re: binding oops
PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2009 10:44 am 
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It never occurred to me to use a heat gun on yellow glue (I assume we are talking titebond and such?) to fix goobered glue ups. This info may save me a bunch on high blood pressure meds. LOL

-Matthew
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ayavner
 Post subject: Re: binding oops
PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2009 11:56 am 
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Maybe a wide-tipped soldering iron and a damp rag? just to get a little finer control over the area without damaging anything else?

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Pat Foster
 Post subject: Re: binding oops
PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2009 12:58 pm 
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I like to use an old Seal tacking iron for dry mounting. Uses 165 watts, not too hot to control, and heats in a concentrated area. Works well on binding glued with LMI glue or original Titebond.

Pat

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