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I need some ideas on filing the ends of the frets on boundless fretboards when re-fretting.I`m having a hard time filing the tang that is cut off flush with the board.It`s never cut perfectly flush and seems to rub off a little bit of the finish when filing.Help appreciated.
James

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James W Bolan
Nashville Tennessee

What type of file are you using? I use a fairly fine cut, dull mill file, and it does a pretty good job of not trashing the finish, some of it is in the amount of pressure used, but with the right file it is kind of brainless.

That problem sounds like a hassle, the only (semi) bright side, is that touchups on the sides of the neck for whatever reason are not too hard to pull off.

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Jordan Aceto
Ithaca, NY

It`s a small file stew mac sells for dressing the fret ends.
james

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James W Bolan
Nashville Tennessee

James,

It's probably too late now, but what about undercutting the tang like you would do with a bound fretboard, and then filling the gaps with dust and CA? If you are using an ebony fretboard, the gaps would be all but invisible. I just did it with a Macassar Ebony fretboard, and it really does blend in well even with the lighter color of Macassar. Just a thought. Good luck.

Dan

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Dan

Skin bro I agree with uuyy58826 - I just wish that I had a clue as to what uuyy58826 said.....

Have you considered binding your fret boards.... Seriously it makes this issue moot. I even bind my ebony boards with ebony to avoid the look of fret ends.

When I was filling the ends I tried black epoxy, and black CA with ebony dust and even though I could get the ends to disappear I had a concern that if the guitar was left to dry out the filling, what ever it was, could be pushed out and even crack the finish.

Or buy John Watkins "faux-Bound" fretboards at cncguitarparts.com, they are and look great.
For the issue itself I have no clue as I am using Johns Boards.
But as I think Hesh mentioned, you can cut the fret underneath, just as you would for a bound freatboard and fill the gaps with dust and superglue or epoxy.
or for next time, do the frets before finish comes on.

Lars

Hesh and Lars.This is a re-fret on an old Seagull geetar.I have bound some of my own builds,And I really like the look.I`ve been doing some repairs and re-frets in my spare time,and trying to find a good way to deal with this situation.
James

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James W Bolan
Nashville Tennessee

Just an Idea, If you take a piece of wood and cut out the thickness of a files thickness to it. cut it so when you put the file into the slot in the wood, it only comes out as much as needed for you to file the frets, you can make the cut in any angle needed to fit the fretboard your working on . Just a thought. !! (the wood slides on the the frets on top of the fretboard and the file runs the sides) in case my explenation was streange haha.

Lars.

You need to mask the area around the fret ends with masking tape. Blue painters tape is perfect for this since it comes off easy without leaving a lot of residue. This will prevent the file from messing up the finish. This may be the simple answer you were hoping for. Sometimes people like to get a little to complicated for something that requiers a simple solution.

The problem is you need to file the fret ends right down to the finish, and a layer of tape prevents you from doing that.

James, sorry for not being more helpful, it may just be a matter of practicing and getting a feel for the right amount of pressure to use. I use a really light touch when i start getting close to the finish. Also, i may be in the minority here, but i also prefer a fairly dull file for doing this, if yours is new it might be cutting too well.

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Jordan Aceto
Ithaca, NY

It never impeeded me from getting a flush finish. The layer of tape goes on each side of the tang.