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While removing my binding tape I got some fibers torn out of my Sitka spruce top. What's the best way to repair this. Can I lay some fibers on top with CA and sand down?

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A higher purpose for wood.
Rich Smith
Issaquah, WA

Todd knows his stuff. Don't use CA to fix a splinter of any sort in soft wood, the glue line will show.

Also on the next time. Seal the entire top with a couple coats of shellac before you route the binding channels. The tape will stick to the shellac just fine but when removing the tape, the tape won't pull out the fibers of the top nearly as much, and if you're careful not at all.

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Pull tape from the inside of the top toward the edge, pull it so it is bent over close to 180º, and at a right angle to the way it was laid down (like a hospital corner on a sheet).

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Howard Klepper
http://www.klepperguitars.com

When all else fails, clean the shop.

Also Rich my friend besides using shellac on the top where the tape will be the direction to pull the tape off is at 45 degrees to the grain direction. I also pre-heat the tape ahead of where I am removing it with a hair dryer. At least with the brown binding tape from Stew-Mac and LMI the adhesive releases easier when warmed.

Lastly, you didn't say where the tear-out is. Many builders, this one included, will intentionally thin the outside of the top for the first 2" or so all around the lower bout. If your tear-out is in the lower bout sanding it out as Todd suggested would be something that I would do any way in an effort to thin the outer most areas of the lower bout.

While we are talking about this it's also a good idea to shellac that binding channel area prior to cutting it too.

Hesh, its the brown tape alright. I did shellac the binding channel, but I should have extended it farther. Also I do pull tape off at 45 degrees. The trick of heating the tape is something I will do next time. The tear out is near the edge at the lower bout so I can sand most of it out. Thanks all for the tips.

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A higher purpose for wood.
Rich Smith
Issaquah, WA

I had this same problem early in my building career. I started to seal tops before routing ,this does strengthen the fibers and helps to eliminate tear out. I also pull the tape with the grain. When you go against the grain you tend to lift the grains and magnify the issue. After a few tops I am sure you will get the process down pat.
john

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John Hall
blues creek guitars
Authorized CF Martin Repair
Co President of ASIA
You Don't know what you don't know until you know it

I've had some success gluing back splinters in spruce with hide glue.

Pat

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formerly known around here as burbank
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http://www.patfosterguitars.com

If there's any divot left when you finish sanding, it can be made invisible by filling it with something clear. For example, thicken some super blond shellac by putting a small amount out in a small dish (like a bottle cap or something) and letting it evaporate until it's like honey. Fill the divot with that. Sand back, wait as long as you can, see if it has sunk, and do it again if necessary. After the guitar has a finish on it, you will have a very hard time finding the divot, because of the way light reflects on the surface. You'd be surprised how bad of a divot can be made to disappear this way.

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Todd Rose
Ithaca, NY

https://www.dreamingrosesecobnb.com/todds-art-music

https://www.facebook.com/ToddRoseGuitars/

This happened to me several times. And like Pat said, I was often able to reglue the splinters back on the top using CA glue. But that was when part of the splinters were still attach to the top. So I had a perfect match when folding them back in place. Otherwise I just fill the gap with CA. Once finished, you will really have to know it's there to see it. Unless they are quite big splinters.

Regarding methods to remove the tape, what I usually do is to test runouts and remove the tape in the direction of the runouts. To test runouts, I place a piece of tape on the area that will be hidden by the fretboard extention and simply peel it off from both ends. One end should have splinters on the tape if the runouts are significant. Just remember that the runouts will be in the opposite direction on the other half of the top.

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Alain Moisan
Former full time builder of Acoustics, Classicals and Flamencos.
(Now building just for fun!)

I like that tip Todd.I could have used it several times.
James

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James W Bolan
Nashville Tennessee

Alain,

I wrote hide glue. I wouldn't use CA on spruce if it's to get a clear finish.

Pat

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formerly known around here as burbank
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http://www.patfosterguitars.com

Oops! Sorry for the misquote Pat.

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Alain Moisan
Former full time builder of Acoustics, Classicals and Flamencos.
(Now building just for fun!)

Letme, letme upgrade ya. Get away from th Stewmac brown tape and get some 3m fiberglass reinforced straping tape. holds better, reacts less to CA or other glues, comes off better and cost far less.

If you have to fill a spot that you intend to have a clear finish what do you recommend? I guess it can be filled with shellac, but it takes forever and the spot will appear darker.

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A higher purpose for wood.
Rich Smith
Issaquah, WA

Try the method I suggested above. If you use super blond shellac, it won't show unless the spot you're filling is very deep - well, maybe it would on some very white Engelmann or Euro spruce (I can't say I've tried it), but not on sitka or other darker top woods.

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Todd Rose
Ithaca, NY

https://www.dreamingrosesecobnb.com/todds-art-music

https://www.facebook.com/ToddRoseGuitars/

Todd, I saw in an earlier post that you let some shellac stand until thick and applied it to the problem area. I'll give it a try. Thanks.

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A higher purpose for wood.
Rich Smith
Issaquah, WA

the new server has a poor spam filter

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John Hall
blues creek guitars
Authorized CF Martin Repair
Co President of ASIA
You Don't know what you don't know until you know it

I've been having a real good time looking up all those wonderful products.

It's nice to see of these old post that are being resurrected.

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Jim Watts
http://jameswattsguitars.com

Just drop fill it when you're doing the finishing. No big deal.

I use denatured alcohol in a small needle tipped bottle to remove brown binding tape. A small drop of DNA next to the tape edge and it releases instantly and the DNA evaporates within 10-15 seconds leaving zero residue. It doesn't take much so no need to go nuts with the stuff. I learned this trick from Somogyi. Good enough for him, is good enough for me... Try it on a scrap of spruce if in doubt.

Cheers, M