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PostPosted: Sat Mar 15, 2008 4:41 pm 
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Koa
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First name: Heath
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my first rims are complete. well, almost i guess. still needs an end graft. peruvian walnut from LMI. it will eventually get an ebony end graft. hope you enjoy.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 15, 2008 4:44 pm 
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a couple more...


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 15, 2008 4:47 pm 
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and the back it will eventually get...

thanks for looking.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 15, 2008 5:30 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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looking good! [:Y:] I expect the graft will be added after the box is closed?

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 15, 2008 5:49 pm 
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actually, i think im going to make a jig real quick to cut the end graft in the state the rims are in now. what do you suggest?

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 15, 2008 6:21 pm 
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Hi,

I don't recall seeing an extra piece of wood on top of the neck block before. The only other place I saw that was John Mayes DVD...or it may just be that I'm a newbie and just realizing such a part now.

Anyhow if it's unique to your guitar, could you describe what it does.

Also btw, are you building this guitar from scratch? How difficult has or is the process going for you?

Thanks, David


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 15, 2008 7:27 pm 
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david, let me first just disclaim that this is my very first guitar and that while i try and research and figure out as much as i can before i do something, it is still... well, my first guitar. the piece of wood on top of the neck block is to replace the upper transverse graft with something that makes a little more sense to me. is it going to work? or is it going to be a disaster? ill let you know in a handful of years. you can read a thread where i had some questions about this neck block type answered http://luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10101&t=15987&hilit=neck+block. lots of good info in there.

the neck block that john mayes uses is different as he also bolts the fretboard to the neck block extension and i will not be doing that.

the guitar is being built from wood bought as an unserviced kit from LMI. you can pick and choose anything you want or do not want in the kit with their "kit wizard." so if that is a "scratch" build, then yes.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 15, 2008 7:43 pm 
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david, forgot to say that i am loving every minute of building. its challenging for sure, but if it wasnt it wouldnt be as rewarding.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 15, 2008 8:06 pm 
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bliss
Wow Heath, those are some nice rims you got there buddy. What radius you gonna use for the top and bottom? Just curious as to what people use and why. I chose a 30' and 20' for no particular reason that I understand yet...lol

Great job! bliss

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 15, 2008 8:21 pm 
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chuck, i made dishes that are 28' and 15' respectively. not much reason behind it. i heard that 28' may make setting neck angle a bit easier, but who knows.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 15, 2008 10:47 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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sorry...no idea about the jig. On my first I simply measured x and y mm, left and right of the top and back joints, draw a line, scribe with a knife then chisel the stuff out. Fitting was easy enough, the graft mostly wedge-slid in.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 15, 2008 11:13 pm 
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I JUST finished my first end piece jig. Very simple. My first attempt was a disaster, so this time I really thought it through. I went to Lowes and bought a piece of aluminum stock (1/8" thick, maybe 1" wide??). I used the end piece as a template to mark off the aluminum. For times sake, one side of the stock served as one side of the finished "jig", get it?

After cutting it close on the bandsaw, I used my bench grinder to get it "perfect". Of course, it was taller than the rim by about 2 inches. So, I scratched a center line on the "jig", and clamped it to the rim (3 clamps). I used a thin back saw to cut the first side. Then, I moved the clamps so I could cut the other side. Then, after removing the "jig", I cut the center along the glue line. From there, I used a wood chisel to break the pieces out.

Worked like a charm. Make sure you leave the jig extended on both sides of the rim. This gives you room to adjust the fit of the end piece!!

Once you glue the pieces in, wipe the surface clean with a damp cloth, then lay some wax paper over it, a piece of wood stock, and apply several clamps.

Mike


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 15, 2008 11:41 pm 
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Hi Mike,

You may want to wait until the box is closed, depending on the type of binding and purfling that you will be using. In order to cut the miter joints on this end graft the graft itself has to be cut into the edge binding. Hopefully these photos will show that.

Nice job on the rims BTW.

Cal
[:Y:]


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 16, 2008 12:02 am 
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Good point! But I am not doing that kind of purfling. Just the standard stuff.

Thanks!

BTW, nice rim job. Good luck! Maybe tomorrow I will post my own "rim shots" ;)

Mike


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 16, 2008 12:49 am 
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Nice work! It looks great!

For the end graft, I try to put it in before attaching the top and back. However, on my #2 guitar, I forgot and did it afterwards.
Either way works fine and I'm sure if you ask everyone here which they do, you'll get a handful of answers each way.
Just do what makes sense to you and it should work out great for you.

Blain

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 16, 2008 9:32 am 
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Hi Heath,

Nice job on the rims. [clap]

Quote:
For the end graft, I try to put it in before attaching the top and back. However, on my #2 guitar, I forgot and did it afterwards.
Either way works fine and I'm sure if you ask everyone here which they do, you'll get a handful of answers each way.
Just do what makes sense to you and it should work out great for you.

Heath & Blaine, when you cut the end graft channel really depends on your edge binding choice.
If you are going to use plain binding, then the end graft can be installed before the plates are glued on, but if you are going to use an edge purfling (see pics I posted earlier) then it is much easier to cut the end graft channel after you have cut the binding/purfling channels and then install the endgraft before the edge binding, so you can miter the corners of the purflings where they meet. In order to do this the purfling strip on the edge binding must be removed over/under the end graft and then the side purflings can then be mitered where they meet.

I'm not sure but there may be other threads concerning this procedure. Either way, your rims look great!

Cal

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 16, 2008 10:20 am 
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Looking Good, Heath! Great progress. Keep 'em coming.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 16, 2008 12:55 pm 
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Btw, hblair, if you use plastic or ivoroid inset, use something like Gorilla Glue!!

Also, what is that avatar of yours? All I see is a bug.

Mike


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