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For my first 2 builds I have used pre-bent binding. This time I want to bend my own. My current project is an OM, indian roswood B & S w/ sitka top. I bent the sides on a friend's bender since I don't have one (yet). I'd like to do the bending of the binding for this project in my own (humble) shop. I have a few questions...

- I have read where others have used the metal pipe portion a the end of a heat gun to bend binding... Is that a viable method?

- which species of wood is relatively easy to bend (for my first attempt). I know that curly figure can be problematic, but are there some kinds that lend themselves to successful bending?

- Generally, do you have any opinions for successful bending (for all types and specifically) on rosewood?

Thanks,
Steve

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Steve Sollod (pronounced sorta like "Solid")
www.swiftcreekguitars.com

Steve buddy when I read the title of this thread I thought that it was about constipation........ Funny how our personal filters sort info for us............

Your binding can be bent very easily also on your friend's bender just as you would bend a side - this is how I do it.

You can use a pipe and the archives will have info on making one or purchasing one - I have one from Stew-Mac.

You are correct that highly figured bindings, just like sides, can be more problematic to bend. Woods that bend more easily are walnut, some mahogany, Indian rosewood, non-figured koa and more.

Hesh - I find your sense of humor entertaining.. Its one on of the things that makes the OLF enjoyable to read...

I thought the idea of using the metal portion of the heat gun a novel way of bending binding. I could make a bending iron or buy one, be I thought it might be worth trying the heat gun. Maybe its a bad idea... Do you like the look of a kind of wood for binding? Maple, koa...?
Steve

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Steve Sollod (pronounced sorta like "Solid")
www.swiftcreekguitars.com

Just make sure you stand either to the side or on the back side of the heat gun. By the time you feel the heat it could be too late!

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Waddy

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Steve,

I bend wood binding on a piece of 3 inch diameter stainless steel pipe held securely by a large vise. I use a small LP torch to heat the pipe. The flame from the torch is directed inside the pipe, simple, cheap, and works very well, just make sure to keep the wood wet to prevent scorching. I then clamp the binding in my form to let it dry. I bend sides this way too. I like to use quarter sawn maple or cherry for binding. The cherry turns out to be almost a honey or butterscotch color when finished with nitro, a beautiful contrast to rosewood.

Mark L.

I used a couple sizes of aluminum (1/4" wall) pipe to bend my sides. I had some pretty well figured wood and being my first time had a few "incidences" that weren't beyond repair. I used a torch at first but then went out and bought a heat gun which worked just as well if not better. I didn't even stick the gun all the way in, I left it about an inch outside and put a balled-up piece of aluminum foil in the end to act as a baffle. Just clamp the pipe tight and be very aware (and very careful) of what is going on during the bend. Good luck!

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Time is a great teacher, but unfortunately it kills all its pupils - Louis Hector Berlioz

Chansen / C hansen / C. Hansen / Christian Hansen - not a handle.

Christian

For my first few guitars, I used a piece of ~ 1.5" diameter steel pipe anchored to a cinder block using a light bulb base. A LP torch was the heat source which worked well. It was really cheap to build with hardware store parts and easy to set up.

I agree that cherry bends easily and would make a nice contrast between rosewood and sitka. I just so happen to have a bunch of cherry bindings cut if you want some... you're right down the street from me, so PM me if you're interested.

Perhaps more than species, thickness is important. Keep it at around .080" (2mm) or even a little less, avoid really curly stock, or if you do attempt this, support the outside with a piece of thin spring steel as you bend(Stew Mac sells these) and have lots of extras.

I too bent my last bindings (and cutaway side) on a simple hot pipe. I just ran a couple bolts through some 2 1/4" copper pipe from the hardware store, tighten some nuts on the other side and clamp the whole thing down in a vise by the protruding bolts. Propane torch in the far end set to a medium heat, and off you go. One note, I use a short piece of aluminum flashing between whatever I'm bending and the hot pipe - I've found that helps eliminate scorching.

Just don't stand too close to the open end of the pipe, you'll toast your favorite shop shirt as I did. Once.

And as always, ponytails recommended for any fellow long-hairs.

I found that curly koa bindings bend like butter, IMO. And they do look very nice with EIR, again, IMO.

Have a look:

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