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TonyFrancis
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 14, 2007 12:29 pm 
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I LOVE my blue spruce chisels. I have the regular dovetail length...just because I feel Im in better control of whats happening. I got the standard 1/8, 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2, with a 5/8, 3/16 and 1/16 on the way! I think these are the best lutherie chisels on the market!



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Alexandru Marian
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 14, 2007 1:18 pm 
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I am going to order the LMI gramil maybe tomorrow. 

So are you guys saying their 2mm chisel is at least ok (if not terrific) to use on cleaning the channel?  I would need a narrow chisel for working saddle slots too...


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rogueguit
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 14, 2007 2:28 pm 
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[QUOTE=Marc]I hand cut binding channels around the areas close to the neck and heel (classicals), also some at the tail. I use two lmi's and two sloane's one each set for side and top and a thin paring chisel. I find the lmi to be a more stable gramil, it doesn't tend to rock as much, but the sloane gets in tighter to the heel.

I've never seen the german one on ebay, looks like good quality, I just bought two, we'll see.




[/QUOTE]


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rogueguit
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 14, 2007 2:32 pm 
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[QUOTE=Marc]I hand cut binding channels around the areas close to the neck and heel (classicals), also some at the tail. I use two lmi's and two sloane's one each set for side and top and a thin paring chisel. I find the lmi to be a more stable gramil, it doesn't tend to rock as much, but the sloane gets in tighter to the heel.

I've never seen the german one on ebay, looks like good quality, I just bought two, we'll see.

Did you make those Sloane cutters? They are sweet. I made my interpretation from an old ash baseball bat. I like yours better.


[/QUOTE]


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Marc
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 15, 2007 1:49 am 
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Bought my Sloane purfling cutters at stewmac.
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DP LaPlante
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 15, 2007 2:59 am 
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I think my Sloane cutter worked very well.........besides, he was really quite a lovely and talented man.


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JackBarton
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2007 11:29 am 
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Can you get consistent results using the cutter + chisel? I actually enjoy the
use of hand tools, so if it's possible to get consistent results with the
purfling cutter + chisel then that's the way I'll go. Which size chisel is best
for the job, 1mm or 2mm? Thanks.
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Alexandru Marian
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 28, 2007 11:44 am 
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I just got my gramil in the mail and it is a lot of fun. Very relaxing, no noise. No force needed, just gently pull it along. I am clearing with my 12mm chisel...it is the only one I have :)  I am well used to it and I am sure a 2mm toothpick would feel way too light for me.

Two gramils would make things faster.  The cuts are perfect.


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Sam Price
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 28, 2007 7:54 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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[QUOTE=JackBarton] Can you get consistent results using the cutter + chisel? I actually enjoy the
use of hand tools, so if it's possible to get consistent results with the
purfling cutter + chisel then that's the way I'll go. Which size chisel is best
for the job, 1mm or 2mm? Thanks.[/QUOTE]

The results are consistent depending on the person, and how sharp those blades are.
I use a 5mm chisel to rout out the channels.
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BlackHeart
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 29, 2007 2:08 am 
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Hi Alex, I noticed that the blades are centered, not beveled to one side, is that not an issue? They look like they have a high copper contend (bronze?), but they do handle nice for a great price!
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Alexandru Marian
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 29, 2007 2:48 am 
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Yes, they have a center point, and the beveled side has two bevels. This way you can change direction at any time you wish.

If it is sharp and you do not force it, it cuts through spruce and cypress like a hot knife in butter. Have not tried it on rosewood yet but it should work just as fine.  It is a little harder when it encounters thick glue zones - here is where the chisel helps.

No bronze, it is anodized, probably full steel. The Sloane has a lot of bronze on it though...







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WaddyThomson
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 29, 2007 3:01 am 
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That's interesting.  Does the dual bevel edged blade not create a sloped vertical on the inside of the top?  Seems like that might create a gap at the top edge of the purfling groove. I assume you mean that it is sharpened from both faces of the blade, and not sharpened only from one face like a marking knife.

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Alexandru Marian
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 29, 2007 3:24 am 
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Yes the bevels side has a central ridge, looks like a roof.   The bevel side must face the waste in order to avoid the slope you mention.   If you cut a purfling channel in an existing instrument, you need to reverse the blade when doing the second cut.








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Alexandru Marian
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On both pics the tool is set to cut on the sides. 

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WaddyThomson
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 29, 2007 3:34 am 
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OK, so it is a double bevel, but is sharpened from to one flat edge like so |/.  When you look at the flat face of the cutter it will cut in either direction though like \/.


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Alexandru Marian
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 29, 2007 3:45 am 
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The tiny blade is a bit of a pita to photograph but oh well..




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WaddyThomson
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I see, thanks, Alex.

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BlackHeart
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Ooops, Im talking about this thing. I think it has alot of copper in it. It is a 'simple' design, those are regular phillips head scres on the side for adjusting the blade, they work, but I was a bit taken by the initial/simple design.


It comes with 2 blades and what apears to be a well designed 2MM pick, a leveraged little chisel to carve out the rough spots I guess. For the price it was well worth it.


It has 2 blades, so I guess you can do a single edge bevel on each one, or take a chance with the beveled edge.


I will probably use a file also to get at the binding ledge. The small chisel is a bit too small from doing test runs.


 


Ive also seen a handmade 1/4" plane using a chisel for the truss rod at MIMF, if you really want to cut out the noise.


 


 
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CWLiu
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 31, 2007 8:17 pm 
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I use a gramil and a homemade purfling cutter.
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