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PostPosted: Sat Oct 27, 2007 6:29 pm 
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Koa
Koa

Joined: Sat Aug 04, 2007 10:37 am
Posts: 590
Location: United States
First name: Michael
Last Name: Shaw
City: Phila
State: PA
Zip/Postal Code: 19125
Country: United States
I have a yamaha fg-312 taiwain made from the 70's I believe. This is one with the slotted headstock. It needs a neck reset but i'm not sure what type of neck joint this has. I have searched google but no luck. I have heard that some asians used dowed necks and epoxy. Anyone on here have a clue i would apreciate it before I go and try to steam it off. Thanks.

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 28, 2007 1:46 am 
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Koa
Koa
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Joined: Wed Mar 29, 2006 11:21 am
Posts: 805
Location: United States
First name: Jim Howell

Well... I have taken a few of these apart.  It will be a dovetail joint and it will be glued together with an 'epoxy like substance'.  The glue is the killer.  I've personally destroyed four or five FG-75's from e-Bay trying to get the joint to come undone.  The glue will release with heat, but using steam turned out to be not such a 'hot' solution.  The wood soaks up way too much water before anything is warm enough.


I've made heat shields from cardboard and aluminum foil and you c an use several different shapes of these around the joint to protect the neck and the sides at the neck block.  The heat source can be a small blanket, a hair dryer, etc.  Now, the thin line to walk is loosening the glue before the finish bubbles!


Is there a better way?  I think so.  I love the old Yammies.  I particularly like the tone that comes from the FG-140 which was Yamaha's version of the D-18.  I've come to the conclusion that the only sane neck reset involves using a Vet's bone saw to saw (a thin kerf Japanese saw would work as well) through the joint.  The neck can then be easily converted to a bolt-on.  No harm-no foul.  If done carefully, the finish isn't too bad to patch. 


The thing to remember is that these guitars are 'players' -- they make great boat/beach guitars. Snag yourself an FG-75 from the Bay for $50 and practice the cut.  Have fun -- it ain't a pre-war Martin that you are operating on!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Oct 28, 2007 12:37 pm 
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Koa
Koa

Joined: Sat Aug 04, 2007 10:37 am
Posts: 590
Location: United States
First name: Michael
Last Name: Shaw
City: Phila
State: PA
Zip/Postal Code: 19125
Country: United States
Jim thanks for the answer. I thought it would be an epoxy. I have had this guitar for years now. Bought it used. I leave it at my work and don't want to part with it. I have thought about the saw off method. I have a thin kerf Japanese saw. Frank Ford use this type of method on cheapies too. He stops the cut at the fingerboard and use's a bolt threw the heal. Thanks for the info...Mike

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 28, 2007 12:57 pm 
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Koa
Koa
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Joined: Wed Dec 29, 2004 5:34 am
Posts: 1906
Location: United States

If you can get your hands on Dan Erlewine's/SM neck reset video i believe there is some talk about them and the technique Dan uses. BUT... I just thought of something....along the lines of Jim's solution...SM now sells a very good corded abrasive that even cuts metal. It may be the perfect "fix" as you could cut thru the tenon as suggested by Jim but by using this "super" floss do very little damage elsewhere. Worth a try.


Post some pics...


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Dave Bland

remember...

"If it doesn't play in tune...it's just pretty wood"


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