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PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2007 9:27 am 
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Koa
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First name: James
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Can steel slats be used when bending the cutaway section?I`ve got a couple I got from John Hall.It`s not spring ,it`s the regular stainless.It seems if I make a sandwich with a couple of slats and a blanket it`s going to be pretty stiff to bend in the cutaway area.I plan on using Super Soft II as per Michael`s technique.
                        James

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2007 9:49 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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I recently bent some figured maple using the stainless slats that John provides. It was a little tricky to get the stainless to bend, but I did it with the help of some long pipe type clamps. After I got the side bent, the stainless was a little warped, but nothing serious.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2007 9:51 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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I meant to add that this was a pretty tight cutaway on the maple. I used super soft II as well and the maple was bent at .80 thickness

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2007 10:13 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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yes, but spring steel seems to be preferred by most everyone I've ever talked
to.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2007 10:48 am 
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Koa
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Thanks guys .I`ve got the EIR sides at the cutaway area thinned to .060.I`ts the steel that seems real stiff to me.         &nb sp;  James

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2007 2:56 pm 
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Do people use SS on the bottom and spring steel on the top? would seem easier on the side this way.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2007 9:35 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Most people I've talked with use Spring steel on top and bottom.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2007 12:10 am 
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Koa
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I just finished my first successful cutaway bend using my bending machine. I recommend spring steel on top and bottom. The stainless steel slats I have came from LMI. They are just to stiff to bend a cutaway. Also once you use them on a cutaway they don't spring back flat enough to re-use. You want the slats to lay perfectly flat on the wood so that it is fully supported, and to hold in the moisture good.
Stainless steel slats will not stain your wood. Spring steel will. My wood was even badly stained when wrapped in craft paper. To keep from getting stains I had to lay a sheet of aluminum foil on both the top and bottom of the wood.

Bottom to top:
spring steel slat
sheet foil
kraft paper
wood
kraft paper
sheet foil
spring steel
heating blanket
thin flashing

Also, don't wrap the wood with the foil. Just lay a sheet down. That way you can re-wet the wood with a spray bottle in the cutaway area.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2007 12:14 am 
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Old Growth Brazilian
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No mater what type use slats Spring steel will bend and return to flat. depending on thickness Stainless will work fine but will retain much of the bent shape.

as far as slap back of the bottom slat slowly release upper bout, lower bout then waist and the spring steel will not crack your cutaway. but if you just willy nilly let the upper bout loose, then sooner or later you will break one off


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2007 12:14 am 
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Old Growth Brazilian
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Oh and get some SuperSoft II!. Great stuff


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2007 12:49 am 
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Koa
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Location: United States
    If you plan on building alot of cutaways then maybe you want to invest in a set of spring steel. To be honest I bent over 200 sets last year and I am still using stainless that has over 500 bends on it. I find the hassle of barriers a pain.
    Once you are comfortable bending the little warp in the stainless is insignificant . I do avoid alum as water chemistry can react and stain wood. Also alum is not a good support but on solid molds and with a barrier you should be fine
john hall
blues creek guitars


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