Official Luthiers Forum!

Owned and operated by Lance Kragenbrink
It is currently Sat Nov 23, 2024 6:55 pm


All times are UTC - 5 hours





Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 25 posts ] 
Author Message
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 25, 2007 9:33 pm 
Offline
Cocobolo
Cocobolo

Joined: Fri Jul 28, 2006 1:09 pm
Posts: 163
Location: Australia
Ok as per all the excellent advice i have received kindly from the wise folks here i have kept on ploughing away at my top and got to this stage.

I have made the bracing a lot more triangular and gone a bit deeper into the middle of the scallops. Also bracing is not sharp but sanded a bit rounder..
I tapered done the top legs of the X -brace a bit .

Not to sure whether to taper down some more...and maybe make the finger braces smaller. ( It is a cedar face)?
but its definitely sounding better than before.
Not sure how far to go ?
What do you guys think..and thank you for the guidence so far.. It has been very helpful






cheers Grant


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 25, 2007 9:38 pm 
Offline
Cocobolo
Cocobolo

Joined: Fri Jul 28, 2006 1:09 pm
Posts: 163
Location: Australia
I forgot to add ..
I'm still undecided whether to tuck the bottom legs of the x-brace ..I did read someone mentioning that you should always tuck with a cedar face because the glue bond is not as strong as with a spruce face?
I don't know if this is true ?
cheers grant


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 25, 2007 10:05 pm 
Offline
Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood
User avatar

Joined: Mon Dec 27, 2004 3:50 pm
Posts: 4662
Location: Napa, CA
Grant...This looks quite clean and neat. Depending on the stiffness of the top it may still be a bit heavy on the bracing to my eye.

What happens when you suspend the top from the sides and push in at the bridge plate area? Can you see slight movement? If the lower bout moves with moderate force, you're close. If not then scallop the lower x-brace legs a bit more.

How does it tap then? Start to remove material from the tone bars and finger braces until you hear a pleasant sound all around the lower bout area.

At this point, it would be a great idea to refer to John Mayes' Voicing DVD's...they helped me tremendously.

At some point soon...even without a lot more material removal, once you hear a pleasant tone, you should just stop and glue it all together. Take copious notes and use this experience as a basis of comparison to determine how you'll voice the next guitar. Good luck!

_________________
JJ
Napa, CA
http://www.DonohueGuitars.com


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 25, 2007 11:30 pm 
Offline
Mahogany
Mahogany

Joined: Mon Sep 17, 2007 12:00 pm
Posts: 60
Location: Australia

A couple of comments from an engineering point of view only, (I have no experience with bracing yet)


The cap over the Xbrace lap is a bit small in thickness and does not have much overlap onto the bars.


The brace above the soundhole is quite massive but the trussrod access hole has left very little material on the outer face.


As I said, structural comments only no comments re tone.



Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 26, 2007 8:44 am 
Offline
Cocobolo
Cocobolo

Joined: Thu Aug 03, 2006 12:44 pm
Posts: 110
Location: Canada
grant,
based on the seven that i've built it looks to me like your in the ball park, but probably on the heavy side of the park. looks like the braces are wider than the 1/4" (or 6mm) that is often used by hand builders. my x and tonebar profiles look a lot like yours, but 6mm. the finger braces could probably stand to loose some beef.
what i did on my first build (also an OM) was spend time looking at the top bracing pics on frank fords 'frets' web site. i stared for a long time at the picture of the santa cruz om bracing and tried as best i could to imitate it. check it out. it's worth it. i think it's also worth remembering that most first time builders will err on the side of leaving too much bracing.
but like i said, you're definitely in the ball park. you're going to love your guitar.
phil


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 26, 2007 10:11 am 
Offline
Contributing Member
Contributing Member
User avatar

Joined: Mon Jan 03, 2005 7:40 am
Posts: 2694
Location: United States
First name: John
Last Name: How
City: Auburn
State: Ca
Country: USA
Looking good Grant but as others have said you could safely remove a little more height and still be safe and the finger braces are definately on the beefy side. It'll no doubt make a fine guitar if you finished it as is but I think I'd take a bit off all the braces in the lower bout, The peaks don't need to be too high either. The upper looks good to me. Tucking those lower X legs is a bit more work and I don't bother, I just treat'm like you did your other tone bars. Nice work too by the way, it looks real good and will make a wonderfull guitar.

_________________
Tickle your guitar daily, and it'll tickle you back.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 26, 2007 6:00 pm 
Offline
Cocobolo
Cocobolo
User avatar

Joined: Mon Nov 14, 2005 8:30 pm
Posts: 495
Location: United States
Status: Amateur
Grant,

Bravo for showing your work and requesting a review of your work. Your work looks pretty clean. I am about to close my first box but would never show my bracing. Mine looks ok but is not going to be over braced. The problem with mine is that it looks like a 5 year old attacked it with an ax and had little skill to work with at that. Your work looks pretty good. The people on the OLF have a lot of knowledge and it looks like you are taking their comment as given in the spirit of positive sharing and not as a negative. All I know is that in the couple of years I have lurked or participated at this site everyone, I think to a man or woman, has said that their first or first few were overbuilt. In fact, I'm not sure if I have ever heard someone say they underbuilt one. I have been trying to avoid over building my soundboard but the lutz in really really stiff and I keep working on it a bit at a time. John Mayes DVD on tap tuning is pretty good and I too would recommend it.

Someone once told me that if it looks like a guitar and is built like a guitar then it will sound like a guitar. This has alway helped me because I figure it means if you pay some attentio to your work it will turn out fine.

Sheesh, a bit off my face here. Guess I shouldn't be posting now

Its looking good so take your time and enjoy the process. It will be fine and you will alway have a smile on your face when people say "wow, Its a bonzer ..you built it yourself".

So no worries grab a slab and relax.

PHilip

_________________
aka konacat

If you think my playing is bad you should hear me sing!
Practice breeds confidence and confidence breeds competence. Unfortunately, I'm stuck in practice.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 26, 2007 8:25 pm 
Offline
Cocobolo
Cocobolo

Joined: Fri Jul 28, 2006 1:09 pm
Posts: 163
Location: Australia
cheers guys ,...thanks for the help so far
JJ,..i tried the pushing at the bridgeplate area and it does flex ever so slightly and thats with a fair amount of pressure ..I guess once its glued to the rims it will be a lot stiffer.
as far as tap tone its a low note all around the lower bout and rings for a fair amount of time. Except in the area around the x where the tone and finger brace meets the x..I guess there is a lot of mass around that area but i took some more out of the x scallop today.

Todd ,..I read and read and decided to not tuck and have feathered the bottom legs out today

jeffhigh, i wasn't exactly sure how long the cap should be so i had a bit of a guess

phil, yeah your right the braces are slightly wider than 6mm..they are between 7-7.5mm wide. and i did a bit more work on the finger braces today ...I will have a look at frank fords site for what you are talking about

john how , the concensus so far has been the beefy finger braces here and other forums i frequent so I will need to look at that and the height that you mention, thank you

and phillip,
yes I like the spirit of sharing. I can learn something and more importantly by posting these things hopefully it will help someone in their research down the track..
and you also remind me that john mayes voicing dvd wouldn't go astray...I will have to get that someday.

thanks to all


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 27, 2007 2:55 am 
Offline
Old Growth Brazilian
Old Growth Brazilian

Joined: Tue Dec 28, 2004 1:56 am
Posts: 10707
Location: United States
Unless I just missed it no one mentioned the shape of the x brace in the bridge plate area. I will shape my x-brace to a parabolic or triangular shape from 1" in front of and behind the x intersection. I do this before I scallop the brace. you is pretty much rectangular in shape for a good 6" behind the x intersection. That is a good bit of mass that you could get rid off.

Like the other have said the upper transverse brace is too beefy as are your finger braces.

That said truth is most all of us over braced our first several guitars.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 27, 2007 12:07 pm 
Offline
Mahogany
Mahogany

Joined: Thu Sep 20, 2007 7:39 am
Posts: 49
Location: United States
[QUOTE=MichaelP] I will shape my x-brace to a parabolic or triangular
shape from 1" in front of and behind the x intersection. I do this before I
scallop the brace. you is pretty much rectangular in shape for a good 6"
behind the x intersection. That is a good bit of mass that you could get
rid off.
[/QUOTE]


Michael,
I was reading this thread and found your insight here helpful. Clarifying
question:

Over what length of the x-brace do you make a parabolic cross-sectional
shape for the braces?

Thanks!


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 27, 2007 9:11 pm 
Offline
Cocobolo
Cocobolo

Joined: Fri Jul 28, 2006 1:09 pm
Posts: 163
Location: Australia
[QUOTE=MichaelP] Unless I just missed it no one mentioned the shape of the x brace in the bridge plate area. I will shape my x-brace to a parabolic or triangular shape from 1" in front of and behind the x intersection. I do this before I scallop the brace. you is pretty much rectangular in shape for a good 6" behind the x intersection. That is a good bit of mass that you could get rid off.

Like the other have said the upper transverse brace is too beefy as are your finger braces.

That said truth is most all of us over braced our first several guitars.[/QUOTE]
thanks michael, I was wondering about the mass in this area.. because its definitely not as lively when you tap around there..I wish i had done some work on the x - brace before gluing the others on ...its not to late but it would have been easier.
cheers I will endeavour to lighten it up some more.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 28, 2007 12:23 am 
Offline
Old Growth Brazilian
Old Growth Brazilian

Joined: Tue Dec 28, 2004 1:56 am
Posts: 10707
Location: United States
I actually said that in what I posted. I shape the full length of the X-braces except about 1"-1 1/2" either side of the intersection joint.

What I did not say was, this leaves me plenty of room for a full width cap about 2 1/4" long . Once the cap is glued up and cured I go back and blend the shape up to the outer edges of the intersection and across the cap. this leaves me with little to no sharp edges prior to scalloping. After tuning the plates I take 22 sandpaper an lightly remove all sharp edges left by the scallops. I don't round over the scallops I just knot the sharp edges off the sides.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 28, 2007 1:49 am 
Offline
Old Growth Brazilian
Old Growth Brazilian

Joined: Tue Dec 28, 2004 1:56 am
Posts: 10707
Location: United States
220 sand paper


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 28, 2007 5:25 am 
Offline
Old Growth Brazilian
Old Growth Brazilian

Joined: Tue Dec 28, 2004 1:56 am
Posts: 10707
Location: United States
This is an OM or OOO body I believe. Your X-brace appears to be at least 3/8" thick if not more. An OM does not need that thick of an X brace. On OMs I use to make mine 5/16 (.313") now days I make mine 7mm (.276") my tone bars are 1/4" (.250") and my Upper transverse brace on an OM is 3/8"(.375") on less the tops cross gran is less than desired. My fingers brace now days are 7/32" or 5.5mm (.219") on an OM.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 28, 2007 5:41 am 
Offline
Contributing Member
Contributing Member
User avatar

Joined: Sat Jul 28, 2007 1:03 pm
Posts: 724
Location: NE Oklahoma, United States
First name: Steve
Last Name: Walden
City: Bartlesville
State: Oklahoma
Zip/Postal Code: 74006
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Hesh and Micheal,  That is the most easily understood explanation of voicing I have seen to date.  Thank you.

_________________
Steve Walden
Aspiring Builder,
Bartlesville, OK


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 28, 2007 3:51 pm 
Offline
Cocobolo
Cocobolo

Joined: Fri Jul 28, 2006 1:09 pm
Posts: 163
Location: Australia
First off, thanks hesh , michaelP and everyone else for giving me a very clear understanding of what the objective is....don't know how you guys can put it to words to make me understand , but you have... which made me realise that I wasn't finished yet..

and boy am I glad I kept plugging away at it because its really starting to sound nice now ..i also have a better understanding of what it should sound like having tapped it to death over the last couple days.


Progress report:-
first off I made the scallops a bit deeper then carved the x-brace and tone bars to more of a triangular shape to get rid of a fair bit of mass...this has helped immensly.
I also lowered the finger braces 1mm and shortened the length by 3mm where they join the x to try and free up some mass there..i also made them a bit more triangular.
I took a bit more of the squareness out of the transverse brace.

I still may do some work on the finger braces and maybe replace the cap with a longer one .
but overall I am really pleased with the way its going
thanks everyone.









Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Sep 29, 2007 1:31 am 
Offline
Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood
User avatar

Joined: Wed Feb 01, 2006 3:25 am
Posts: 3788
Location: Russellville, Arkansas
Gratay,
What is the thickness of your soundboard?

Just wondering....

_________________
http://www.dickeyguitars.com


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Sep 29, 2007 2:13 am 
Offline
Contributing Member
Contributing Member
User avatar

Joined: Fri Sep 09, 2005 7:51 am
Posts: 3786
Location: Canada
The latest AG has an ad in it for Huss anbd Dalton - there is a great picture of how they shape/scallop their bracing in that ad... just an FYI. FWIW, I think you fingers are still way too big - mine have no peaks at all, they are like a Larrivee, 1/4 wide and 1/8 tall, flat, and then tapered at the end to nothing, untucked. They are more for cross grain support than anything else. See the HD ad for the peaked ones shape.

_________________
Tony Karol
www.karol-guitars.com
"let my passion .. fulfill yours"


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Sep 29, 2007 9:41 am 
Offline
Cocobolo
Cocobolo

Joined: Fri Jul 28, 2006 1:09 pm
Posts: 163
Location: Australia
cheers Tony ,I will have a look at that add ...and do a bit more research into finger braces.

Bruce , the soundboard thickness is 0.125" (3.15mm).
it didn't feel particularly stiff so thats why I stopped there when i was thicknessing.
It may be on the thick side ..I'm not sure

thanks guys


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 25 posts ] 

All times are UTC - 5 hours


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 47 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group
phpBB customization services by 2by2host.com