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This is great help folks, thank you

Evan I can push the binding down along the entire length which is pulled up, doesn't really take to much effort at all. It doesn't feel like I'm forcing it.

I went to two local hardware stores today, neither had Roo glue.

I'm going to use titebond and see how that goes. I will clean the binding channel and binding off as best I can. I don't like to buy one off items from the guitar suppliers (border, duties, etc) and honestly I don't really have the time to wait. I would of course like to make sure the binding doesn't come off again so choosing the right glue that doesn't effect the finish and holds over time is really the key.

Any other ideas?

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Pardon me for chiming in here, but just thinking out loud, have you thought about Fish Glue?  I know it isn't good for boats, guitars used as paddles, or guitars that are stored in a sauna or car trunk, but when you read the label on Fish Glue, it says it's designed for gluing almost anything, including glass and steel.  I did notice on Norland's page, that they recommended coating glass or steel with the glue then re-moistening it to restore the high tack nature.  I don't know if it would attach itself to plastics in the same way.

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Waddy

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Good question.

Anyone?

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"There's really no wrong way, as long as the results are what's desired." Charles Fox

"We have to constantly remind ourselves what we're doing....No Luthier is putting a man on the moon!" Harry Fleishman

"Generosity is always different in the eye of the person who didn't receive anything, but who wanted some." Waddy Thomson

That's what I would use, but I try to only refer to "collagen glues" on forums
because mention of fish glue always causes quite a ruckus. It's all I've used
for 80%+ of my work for the last several years, and I can't remember the last
time I've used a PVA. I still often use hide glue for things like bridges,
because I don't need a long open time and it's nice to have a shorter
clamping time. That not a choice made because of structural quality of the
glue though, but rather one of convenience.

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I guess the pertinent question is then, "Have you used it on plastic binding?"  It certainly would not be an issue finish wise, and excess would wipe off pretty easily.

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Waddy

Photobucket Build Album Library

Sound Clips of most of my guitars

Yes, I've used it on binding repairs quite often. It works well if there is no
stress on the binding (not shrunk and springing back out). It's a very sealed
joint for an evaporative curing glue, so it takes a good 24 hours to dry if it's
all taped off. Roo Glue dries a bit faster, but not much. I really don't know
which is better.

For new clean joints in building I would still choose WeldOn or Duco cement
of perhaps Roo Glue. Super glue of course is much quicker, and has a good
bit more holding power if the area is under stress. The only big downside is
the mess.

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Eschew obfuscation, espouse elucidation.

Woodcraft sells Roo Glue.

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Dave Rector
Rector Guitars