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Paul, Sorry it took so long to get back. I only use hard maple for electric guitars necks because of the longer unsupported length (18-20 frets for electric, and 12-14 frets for an acoustic) Soft maple may work as well, but I'm just a little afraid of it.

Al

Rod,
No appologies needed. I appreciate you showing the guitar with the cedar. It gives me a good picture of what the cedar looks like with the Maple, and plus it's a beautiful guitar. I just love that Maple. I think these figured Maple guitars are probably my favorite.
I can not wait to build one.

I was thinking about the resawing more and more today and I think I'm going to have to be pretty close to perfect to get a back set as well as a side set out of one board. Being as that I have not resawn before, I highly doubt (although not impossible) that I will be able to accomplish this because of the very little amount that I will be allowed to waist. I saw a previous post that said backs should be cut around .180 and sanded down to (I forget the number) maybe .150 and sides should be cut to .150? and sanded down to around .140 or .120? so that doesn't leave me a lot of room for saw cuts.

And now for a couple of questions...
What thickness of blade do most of you reccomend for resawing (and by thickness I mean left side to right side, not teeth to back side). It seems that somewhere I have seen a place that does resawing and they claim to use a much thinner blade so as to save more of the wood and get a whole extra cut every 4 to 5 cuts on a board. Any idea of where to find extra thin blades?
Or would a standard blade be prefered?

Also...Assuming that after making some test cuts, I don't think I'll be able to make 3 cuts in the 7/8+ thick piece to yield a back set and side set, do you think it would look ok to make the back set out of one of the boards and the side set out of the other and use the remaining for neck laminates, end grafts, etc?

What is the common practice of places like LMI or Stew Mac or anywhere where they sell back and side sets? Would you think they're taken from the same board or do they take them from different boards but try to closely match color and patterns as best possible?

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Thanks,
Blain

http://www.ullrichguitar.com

"89.67% of all statistics are made up on the spot."

That is a link to a site that sells the woodslicer blades.  I have yet to grab one myself (will very soon), but I've heard good things about them for resawing.  They are nice and thin side to side like you said, which is called the kerf.  All in all I am looking to try these out, as I said I've heard many good things about them for resaws.  Just something for you to look into when deciding on a blade, maybe some of the guys here have some experience with these and some better insight into their quality. 

 Best of luck with everything. I can't wait to see what you do with that maple.  I believe I might know which dealer you got that from and I must say that I am always impressed with the quality of their curly maple, its tough to pass up.  J 

http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEW CATS&Category=295

 

Hey Jason,

Thanks for the link. I think this is exactly what I'm looking for. Hopefully someone that's used them will give their opinion of the blades.

I can't wait to see the wood when it arrives. The seller had 100% positive feedback and a good deal of transactions so I figured they were worth taking a gamble on (if you call that gambling).

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Thanks,
Blain

http://www.ullrichguitar.com

"89.67% of all statistics are made up on the spot."

Ok, I just got the wood today and took some pictures.

Please let me know what you think.
Worth it, not worth it.
Wouldn't use for back and sides or ok to use for back and sides.
I've never see curly maple other than already made into a guitar so I really don't know if this is good stuff or not. There's a few spots in the wood that aren't necessarily knots, but some kind of marks, but I think they could all be worked around.

Sorry if these are too big or too small. I'm taking a quick shot at posting these.

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Thanks,
Blain

http://www.ullrichguitar.com

"89.67% of all statistics are made up on the spot."

Blain, any chance you can trace the outline of a guitar on one of those pieces somewhere so we can get an idea of their size. Also if you can take a picture of the full piece with the body tracing on it.

They both look like nice wood. Now we just need to see what their size is. I wouldn't hesitate to use them, just depends on what I can work out for the layout.

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Rod. Sure, no problem.

I'll try to do this tomorrow if I can. Shoot, I may even find time to do it tonight....

But in the mean time, one is
41.75 X 10.25 X .875+
and the other is
36.75 X 11 X .875+

What you're seeing in these pictures is the width and a segment of the height.

_________________
Thanks,
Blain

http://www.ullrichguitar.com

"89.67% of all statistics are made up on the spot."

Ok, it's not that late so I went ahead and traced the pattern on them (in no particular spot so feel free to reccomend one if you see fit).

They're both plenty long to get a set of sides out of as well and the one for sure could yield two different back halves one on top of the other.

I didn't wet these down with water so the figure may not pop a whole lot....

_________________
Thanks,
Blain

http://www.ullrichguitar.com

"89.67% of all statistics are made up on the spot."

Wow, sorry for the horrible photos. I obviously didn't take much time taking these.

By the way, these patterns are of a Dread size guitar.

_________________
Thanks,
Blain

http://www.ullrichguitar.com

"89.67% of all statistics are made up on the spot."

[QUOTE=Hesh1956]

The finest sounding f**t**y guitar ...at a G**t*r C**t*r.....

[/QUOTE]

Hesh, you shouldn't use dirty words on the OLF!    (We don't say "G**t*r C**t*r" at my house, EVER!)

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