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Hi Folks

My current build is a Ziricote Dread and i'm wondering if anyone has any tips for grain filling? I hear that normally Ziricote doesn't need much filling but this set has some pores that def. need some work.

Normally i would just do the whole thing in a black(ish) waterbased but the problem is that this set has sapwood sections as well as the usual dark brown and i think black over the sapwood would look odd.

I thought about zpoxy or so but really dont want to deal with the sanding involved.

I also thought about aqua coat... but have heard some bad things???

Any tips would be great.

Thanks!

FTL

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www.leddingtonguitars.com

ZExpoy - put on properly and there's minimal sanding.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YYHxMg7n9cI

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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.

One of my last was Ziricote and it was filled with Zpoxy. I used the foam brush and hairdryer approach that someone suggested on the forum and found the sanding was much more manageable than with the squeegee pproach.

Great...

Thanks for the tips....

I found some z-poxy finishing resin in a local store will give it a whirl.

FTL

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www.leddingtonguitars.com

Three tips I can give for z-poxy....

1) Get the etore squeegee that Todd talks about in the video. They sell it at Lowe's in the broom and mop section. Get the wide one and cut the sleeve and wiper in half. Now you have two. Get some extra wipers if you want.

2) If the neck is not already attached, come up with some kind of holder for the body. In the video, Todd has a nice stick. I just used a dowel with threaded rod epoxied into it. It's important that you have a way to apply pressure with the squeegee without having to hold the body at the same time.

3) Follow this process (the youtube video) to the letter and you'll have success.

Good luck!
Brad

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Insta - https://www.instagram.com/cbcguitars/
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My first choice would be epoxy. It pops the grain the most of any filler I've seen.

A very close second is CA. It pops the grain almost as well and if put on properly doesn't take much sanding. It also has the advantage of minimizing cracking down the road when you use thin CA to start the fill.

But, you need to consider what you are planning for a top coat, to be sure there are no compatibility issues.

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Joe Beaver
Maker of Sawdust

I have become a fan of West Epoxy systems. Much fussier than Z Poxy when mixing. But it adds no color. And I like that. I'll be using it on Zircote myself. Z Poxy is a better option if you are inexperienced with epoxy since mixing is not an issue, and cost is low. I'd also recommend using a sealer before applying.

West System: 105/207

Sealer: Prestec 58x1 (2 part) (http://www.simteccoatings.com)

Do not spray sealer if you do not have proper venting. Wipe on is just as good. It can be used on top as well to prevent grain rise under waterborn finish. This sealer will prevent epoxy from lifting color and spreading it around.

I like ArtResin because it's water clear and 1:1 mix but have only used it with Enduro Var.

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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.

Regarding Epoxy, I have become a fan of System Three Clear Coat. It is good stuff. It does cure a little slower than some but they do have an accelerator which I have not yet used.

West System is good also, and zpoxy works well when you are looking for a more amber look. I have even dyed finishing resin a time or two with alcohol based colors when needed

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Joe Beaver
Maker of Sawdust

Another +++ on the systems three. Incredible stuff.

What if any finishes would be incompatible with epoxy?

SYSTEM 3 SILVERTIP ?? OR system 3 with silica I use the medium grade for longer setup time

Regarding finishing resin compatibility, I've only used Ktm water based products and nitro (Cardinal) and they work fine. I've been told Royal Lac does not

A friend of mine used zpoxy with 2 part polyurethane. 2-3 months in now and it is doing fine

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Joe Beaver
Maker of Sawdust

Royal lac should not be used in direct contact with epoxy, but several layers of regular shellac between the two solves this issue. Thats been my experience anyway.

Steve

I've not had any issues between Royal Lac and epoxy. I vaguely remember one person posting that the finish crazed over epoxy, but I also recall people complaining about crazing who were spraying. I don't know if the problem was the epoxy or the way it was being sprayed.

Regardless, I'm sure a seal coat of shellac is reasonable and economical insurance.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks again fellas.

I've used zpoxy finishing resin and it worked out great...

I'm in Europe so no Royal Lac or Cardinal for me... I am using Dartfords nitro... After sanding down the zpoxy I shot a couple of few sealer coats. I will begin lacquering over the coming days.

FTL

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www.leddingtonguitars.com

You would almost have to go out if your way to screw up with Z Poxy. Very forgiving. I wish there was a clear version.