Official Luthiers Forum!

Ok… here we go!
I’ve done tests w an old body
After I get done I’ll do a thread w a review:) now it will be from a newer builder w milliliter experience but maybe it will be helpful.



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Well I have to say… I did have a gaff during the learning phase, but nothing that isn’t reparable.

Al that said, this is the most accurate binding and purlfing channel I’ve cut so far (I’m on number 30)


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It's a great design. I did a DIY version of something very similar. It's almost hard to make a mistake with this one as long as you follow standard climb cut procedures.

Any chance you could share your DIY solution? I'm just getting back to working on my first build after having to put it down to prioritize other shop projects. I fabbed up a janky cleat that I mounted to the bottom of my trim router to cut the channels on the body, but they ended up being a bit uneven at various parts...to no one's surprise. I love the design of the Elevate jig and was thinking about trying to recreate something similar.

I like it Snow nice job.

Do you find any issues holding things nice and tight and also circumventing after the climb cuts the entire body when the jig is fixed and the human is who has to move the instrument?

I can see this being even better if it was mounted to an articulated arm and there was a holder for the body. Kind of the Williams Jig that I am used to but with your arrangement for the router, donut and such.

It looks very well done though, nice going.

Oh I didn’t make this Hesh it’s from elevate:)


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The Elevate jig looks to be an improved version of the small attachments they often supply with trim routers (+ a homemade donut). I have been tempted to cobble a something together in wood that would be similar to what Chris has made.
So far, I have been getting along with the commercial stuff. The "articulated arm" I have been using with them is the one attached to my shoulder. Because the bearing that rides on the side of the body is relatively narrow you have to hold the router as vertical as possible and "perpendicular" to the curve of the sides to avoid a slight variation in the width of the rebate. I usually go back over it with a file to address these slight discrepancies.

I routed a dovetail channel in the backer board so that the mount could slide up and down for depth pf cut. The mount has wood insert in it and a handle screw in the back to lock it in place. You can kind of see it in the last pic.