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PostPosted: Sat Dec 21, 2019 11:04 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

Joined: Fri Aug 19, 2005 4:02 am
Posts: 3263
Location: The Woodlands, Texas
First name: Barry
Last Name: Daniels
Compounding pad used with the 105:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009OBVXC0?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details


Final polish pad used with the Perfect-It:

https://www.autobodytoolmart.com/3m-perfect-it-ultrafine-foam-polishing-4-inch-pad-30043-p-48295.aspx


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These users thanked the author Barry Daniels for the post: Pmaj7 (Sat Dec 21, 2019 5:15 pm)
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 21, 2019 12:21 pm 
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Contributing Member
Contributing Member

Joined: Tue Dec 17, 2013 10:52 pm
Posts: 3076
First name: Don
Last Name: Parker
City: Charleston
State: West Virginia
Zip/Postal Code: 25314
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Super helpful! Thanks so much.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 25, 2019 1:41 pm 
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Koa
Koa

Joined: Sat Apr 19, 2008 10:08 pm
Posts: 1958
Location: Missouri
First name: Patrick
Last Name: Hanna
State: Missouri
Country: USA
I've used my drill press to buff small objects, do light drum sanding, and light rust removal with a wire wheel. However, I stayed lucky when I did these things. I can't really recommend it for a guitar-sized object. It'll be clumsy, with lots of drill press parts to bang into. In addition, I doubt that the bearings are designed to deal with sideways thrust, and it would be a shame to wear them out. This is what I was referring to when I said I "stayed lucky." Your drill press chuck is not likely to handle a shaft that is thick enough to prevent deflection, and your chuck could potentially come loose, too. In his instruction video / dvd, Robert Bennedetto demonstrates using a foam pad in a drill press to do the FINAL polish on a guitar. This is mostly down pressure, which is what the drill arbor is designed for. He's using light pressure, too. You can get a very nice finish with hand work and patience. I'd like to have a buffer, too, but I'm a hobby builder and have never felt justified in giving the space to a machine buffer.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 25, 2019 1:44 pm 
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Koa
Koa

Joined: Sat Apr 19, 2008 10:08 pm
Posts: 1958
Location: Missouri
First name: Patrick
Last Name: Hanna
State: Missouri
Country: USA
Barry Daniels wrote:

This approach makes perfect sense to me. I used Meguiar's products to polish three instruments. Very satisfactory results.


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 29, 2020 11:26 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Wed Feb 20, 2008 9:12 pm
Posts: 6983
First name: Mike
Last Name: O'Melia
City: Huntsville
State: Alabama
Focus: Build
Status: Semi-pro
Barry,

I have studied your sanding schedule and it looks similar to mine. Except for the Abralon pads. In the past you commented on my use of 400 paper. So I am changing that. What I do not fully understand is when you use the 105 cutting compound. Is that step 1? Then the paper schedule? Then is the final step the swirl remover after 4000 Abralon?


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 29, 2020 12:16 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

Joined: Fri Aug 19, 2005 4:02 am
Posts: 3263
Location: The Woodlands, Texas
First name: Barry
Last Name: Daniels
Sandpaper first (including Abralon which is just super fine sandpaper). Then cutting compound (Meguiars 105). Then swirl remover or some type of fine polishing compound.


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 29, 2020 12:21 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Wed Feb 20, 2008 9:12 pm
Posts: 6983
First name: Mike
Last Name: O'Melia
City: Huntsville
State: Alabama
Focus: Build
Status: Semi-pro
OK, so I don't understand the concept of cutting compound. You went all the way to 4000. I assume the 105 cutting compound is less aggressive than 4000? Or maybe, I do not understand purpose of cutting compound. Thank you.

Edit: I understand now. Went and looked up the compounds.


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