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I took some measurements of the actual kerfs the blades cut using the plain steel blade and the carbide blade. The steel blade cut a kerf of .023" and the carbide blade kerf was .042". The measurement method was to use a thin metal rod set (orifice cleaners) and finding one that fit the slot, "dragging" on the sides a little, and then mic-ing it.
I tried fitting an unaltered blade to my Unisaw, and although it went on the arbor, the saw would not raise it above the table. On a Makita 10 inch "tabletop" jobsite saw it appears (by measurement) it might raise above the table enough to cut fret slots.
The battery saw could be fitted to a table board, and that may be the best option for using these blades (or cobble together a simple table saw as I did).

Thanks Clay. If I ever wear out my Stewmac one, I'll consider having a Makita one ground down to the correct width. Should be a lot cheaper.

Clay, are you using any kind of blade stiffener?

Darrel, he's saying that the steel blade cuts the right kerf. If you were going to grind one down you might as well use a larger plywood blade.

Pat

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Pat

I haven't been using stiffeners, but have been thinking of adding them. The blade is mounted to a 3450rpm direct drive motor, and I have noticed a little bit of wobble as the blade contacts the wood. Since I taper the blank after the slots are cut this has not been a problem. I might eventually add a couple of plywood stiffeners if I keep using this saw. Although it works well it is very loud and (as someone once said) "harshes my mellow".
I bought some surplus arbors and may build a quieter, albeit slower saw, which probably wouldn't require stiffeners.

Hi Pat. I interpreted it that the Makita carbide cut a .042" slot and that grinding it down would get it to the proper width?

One difference between high speed steel saw blades and carbide tipped blades is that HSS use the set of the teeth to provide clearance for the plate, where carbide tipped use the thickness of the tooth itself to provide the clearance. You only need a couple of thousandths of clearance. The carbide blade may have a plate thicker than .023" . I will try to measure the thickness of the plate and report back.

I measured the 3 3/8th inch carbide tipped blade I have. The teeth measured .042" and the plate measured .034". That gives about.004" either side of the plate. Personally I wouldn't try to modify that blade. The 50 tooth HSS blade would probably give a better cut and be easier to sharpen and set as the need arises.

Yeah, I've never heard of anyone grinding down a carbide blade, just the steel plywood blades.

Pat

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Pat

One thought - if you wanted to do the old fashioned "bar" frets, the carbide tipped blade might be just the ticket! It would cut a slot .042" and you could buy .040" nickel silver sheet from these people and cut your own bar frets:
https://contenti.com/nickel-silver-sheet-metal

You may be right. I haven't checked pricing with these guys but they make as small as .010" kerf carbide tipped blades. http://www.totalsawsolutions.com/page/custom-saw-blades