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I don't normally do repairs but I just had this happen while removing a top. All the bracing seems in tact and fine except for the brace below the X-Brace by the tail block which I'll remove sand and re-attach. The soundboard seam failed with heat application while removing the top. Any advice on the best way to salvage this top? I won't be selling this guitar but I may gift it to a friend or family.

Now that the soundboard is off I've cleaned everything up, sanded the rim etc. If I have to re-top I'm ok with salvaging the rosette but would rather not have to. The top has not been trimmed to match the sides yet so I have some room to attach a couple pieces to assist in clamping it back together. Is this a stupid idea or what?

Thank you! A common sense thread...no B/S or kute politiking...
Let us not forget air conditioning. I still have to run a humidifier in the summer because of A/C.
AND!! Let this whole thread be a warning to you that don't humidify and de-humidify.
You cannot build a reliable guitar without 24hr control.

I'm assuming what happened is that I should have used steam with the iron? Seems like it dried right out and now the joint doesn't want to go back together- not going to build force into it. Nice mastergrade Sitka soundboard going to waste unless I can figure out a creative way to salvage it. Doubt it though the rosette is already oversized. Oh well- live and learn. I probably should have asked how to remove a top before doing it.

Joey, you might be SOL due to shrinkage. It probably can't be reversed permanently. You could probably rehumidify it and it might look OK for awhile but would likely shrink back again. Steam might have helped, but I don't have any direct experience with it for top removal. If it's not to be sold, maybe a little creative inlay? Or use it on a smaller keeper guitar.

Your problem illustrates what happens when we bake tops. In the extreme dryness of an oven, the wood loses moisture and shrinks. After it cools and its moisture content recovers, it will expand again but not all the way back to its original size. Well seasoned tops will be more stable with humidity changes.

Pat

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formerly known around here as burbank
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http://www.patfosterguitars.com

JF took the words out of my mouth. I picked up a Psychro-Dyne psychrometers, dirt cheap on ebay a few years back , and there are several on there now even cheaper. Best way I have found to calibrate my 2 Abbeons.

Bob

Thanks I've pulled the rosette and have another top ready to go. A shame for sure but thankfully Alaska specialty woods has very good prices on silky mastergrade sitka, thanks to that fact I have another one handy.

Gets easier once you make the tough/right decision and dive in, eh?

Pat

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formerly known around here as burbank
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http://www.patfosterguitars.com

Good call. Sucks but I have done it several times; my first size 0 which was way overbuilt and then another for a restoration - it gets easier after you've done one or two. I've got one of my early guitars on the bench now for a refinish and I have already decided it's going to get a new top too. It's a good guitar, except for the top, and it will be worth the effort to make it right.

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Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"

Make sure u post some repair process photos!