Official Luthiers Forum!

I'm not sure how to go about it.
I want to sand a curved transition from the back of the headstock into the neck and apply rear and front veneers on a neck with a scarf joint.
The only idea I have is to leave the head full thickness, glue up the scarf joint, and then thin the back of the head and cut the curve as it meets the neck.
Does this make sense, or is there an easier way to do it?
Thanks,
Dan

_________________
wah
Wah-wah-wah-wah
Wah

Makes sense to me, if I understand you correctly.

That is what I have done. Actually the first time was an accident when I thinned the head stock too far. I went a bit more made a nice transition and glued down the veneer.

_________________
http://www.Harvestmoonguitars.com

Are you talking about, I think the common term is back strapping, Dan?


Glue your finished to final thickness, head plate on. Thickness the back of the head. I use my spindle sander with a fence. Works well for that. Thickness to final thickness including the back material. It is easier to do when the headstock is still square, before the final shape is cut. It rides better in the spindle sander set up. Really, thats about it. Make up a well shaped, cork backed caul for the glue up.

Like anything in building, there are other ways. This works for me. I think they spiff up a guitar without a lot of extra work.

Cheers

I usually do back straps like this. It seems like you need some sort of volute to have a well-defined line otherwise it would look pretty funky. I tried a book matched one like Danny, but when I was bending it, it wanted to open.

_________________
Pat

Looks great, too.

_________________
"Act your age, not your shoe size" - Prince

Here is another way to do it...it's a bit like a snooker cue.

_________________
nigel

http://www.theluthierblog.com

Any tips on how to do backstraps like that Nick? I really like that look but I still can't work out how it's done.

_________________
"I am always doing that which I cannot do, in order that I may learn how to do it."
Pablo Picasso

https://www.facebook.com/FenskeGuitars

It's not so hard. There is a tutorial in my old blog which is available as a free ebook when you sign up to my newsletter. Sign up, get the ebook then unsubscribe (unless you want to buy a guitar!)

http://www.nkforsterguitars.com/newsletter/

_________________
nigel

http://www.theluthierblog.com

Takes a bit of planning, but a nice backstrap can look cool while providing a lot of support, particularly if there is no volute to stop it from running down the back of the neck. I'm particularly fond of the rounded ends on the old Vega and Bacon banjo backstop veneers:



This one is a study in ebony, maple and ivory:



And, here's one from 1910 featuring the scarf joint, long backstrap and some interesting laminations:
http://www.frets.com/FretsPages/Museum/Banjo/Comet/CometViews/comet9.jpg

_________________
Cheers,

Frank Ford

FRETS.COM
HomeShopTech
FRETS.NET

I didn't want to give up my dart-style volute, so here's mine:

It's quite a bit of work, since it's a solid piece of ebony, but I like the look.


Ken Jones
Mountain Song Guitars

_________________
Mountain Song Guitars www.mountainsongguitars.com

Thanks, gentlemen!
I have a spindle sander, I did not think of using it.
Good point to leave the neck square!
A volute may make it easier to feather the backstrap edges, I may do that.
I'll probably glue with epoxy so the veneer does not swell or soften during sanding.
Thanks very much!
Dan

_________________
wah
Wah-wah-wah-wah
Wah

Here's a picture of Birdseye Maple Veneer backstrapped to the back of an Archtop headstock that doesn't have a volute. It's actually a fairly simple process. You need to thin the back of the headstock by the thickness of the veneer being laminated and extend the reduced thickness into the back of the neck (past the first fret in this instance). I laminated this one with Titebond after the headstock was cut to shape (but agree its better to do it prior to cutting the headstock to shape). I laminated it with a flexible caul made from hard rubber backed with thin flexible fiber board wrapped in wax paper.

The neck area where the backstrap extends into the back of the neck was thinned using a big rasp and sanded smooth with 80-grit paper. The "V" extending into the neck was feathered with a fine rasp and the edges then perfected with sandpaper.

Thanks Anthony!
That looks very nice!
Dan

_________________
wah
Wah-wah-wah-wah
Wah

Thanks thats a very interesting read. So basically you have to thin the back of the neck to the exact thickness of the veneer you add on? I guess I could thin the back of the headstock as normal with a drum sander, then thin down the back of the neck with a spokeshave or something to smooth it in. Or is there a more precise way of doing it?

Sorry for calling you Nick before btw! I miss-read your user name

_________________
"I am always doing that which I cannot do, in order that I may learn how to do it."
Pablo Picasso

https://www.facebook.com/FenskeGuitars

So many good looking examples!

_________________
"Act your age, not your shoe size" - Prince

There are lots of ways of doing it, I've tried loads. In the end, you just need to remove wood one way or another. I used to thickness the heads on the table saw then blend it in by hand. Here is a video a from Getty images that shows some of the process:



I get Nick more than Nigel, so don't worry - I'm used to it!

_________________
nigel

http://www.theluthierblog.com

I believe I've got it.
I ran the curve about 1/4" past the nut.
Now I have to thickness some Mesquite and bend it.
Thanks again, fellows!

_________________
wah
Wah-wah-wah-wah
Wah

I like the radius part of the volute to be in line, or just a little north of the nut. Most importantly, your tuner will sit on the flat. I've heard it can happen the other way........... in fact I know it can happen.

I've done several, most similar to the one DannyV showed. You've got lots of good
advice, and your start looks good. The one caution I'll make is to sneak up really
slow on the final contours, making sure both sides of the backstrap stay symmetrical.
I use a rasp and then a pneumatic drum in my drillpress to get the bulk of the wood
removal done, then do the final sanding up the grits using a 1" dowel wrapped in cork,
wrapped in sandpaper.

_________________
Gene

Politicians and diapers must be changed often, and for the same reason- Mark Twain

Thanks, Gene.
I'm trying this one without a volute. I have always made volutes because it was fairly easy.
I have an SG I can use as a reference.
I'm still no good with carving tools, so I'll pretty much use sanding tools.

_________________
wah
Wah-wah-wah-wah
Wah

It works best if you keep the surfaces on the back of the head and on the neck below the transition FLAT, so the only curved part is where the neck and head join. If the outer veneer has any thickness you have to bend it, of course. Make a short caul to fit the curve EXACTLY, and flat cauls when gluing on the head and neck parts.I do this all before carving the neck, of course. I use wedges and my drill press planer except for the curved part.